基于不同混合工艺的棉/舒弹丝纤维混纺纱性能研究  

Study on the properties of cotton/SUSTANS fiber blended yarn based on different blending processes

作　　者：梁巧敏 崔益怀 张娣 吉宜军 苏旭中 LIANG Qiaomin;CUI Yihuai;ZHANG Di;JI Yijun;SU Xuzhong(College of Textile and Apparel,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214000,China;Nantong Shuanghong Textile Co.,Ltd.,Nantong 226600,China;Wuxi Jinmao Foreign Trade Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi 214000,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214000 [2]南通双弘纺织有限公司,江苏南通226600 [3]无锡市金茂对外贸易有限公司,江苏无锡214000

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第2期25-30,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心协同创新基金项目(XJFZ/2021/17)。

摘　　要：为研究前纺不同混合工艺对舒弹丝混纺纱性能的影响,文章试制不同混合工艺路线下14.7 tex的60/40棉/舒弹丝混纺纱,并分析混合工艺与成纱性能之间的关系。通过在开清棉工序中将梳棉棉条、梳棉棉网、精梳棉条三种形态的棉纤维以10%和20%的比例分别与40%舒弹丝共同混合制成棉卷,并在并条工序采用条混工艺制备6组混纺比为60/40的棉/舒弹丝混纺熟条,而后相关熟条被加工至筒纱,最后测试相关纱线的主要性能指标。测试结果表明,在制备棉卷时采用精梳棉条且棉卷中棉纤维混合比例为20%时,纱线强伸性能、条干变异系数、纱疵、毛羽H值等主要性能指标最佳。原因在于棉卷中精梳棉条的棉纤维使舒弹丝纤维回缩减弱,且自身伸直较好,所制成的生条质量高。The development orientation of China’s textile industry is"science and technology,fashion and green",indicating the increasingly high-quality,comfortable,natural,green and low-carbon demands in the textile fabric market.In view of the current environment,the development of green fiber is the inevitable trend of the textile market.In 2020,the domestic sports shoes and clothing brand company 361°won the title of"best annual partner"in China’s fiber fashion trend 2020/2021 for the application of the"sustans cotton polyester elastic knitted fabric"of Haixing Kaisheng Technology Co.,Ltd.,which was produced by using polymers of biomass raw materials and unique clean processing technology.It is an efficient combination of biotechnology and fiber technology,not only conforming to the trend of green environmental protection but also creating satisfactory market benefits.Sustans fiber is the only short elastic fiber available for industrial production at present.It can be blended with a variety of fibers and made into fabrics with the advantages of softness and comfort,stable and lasting elasticity,easiness for finishing,as well as the attribute of ecological and environmental protection.The coil spring-shaped sustans fiber is elastic,fluffy and curly as a whole,and the fibers are easily entangled with each other.It is found through preliminary experiments that when the spinning proportion of elastic silk fiber is high,it is unable to output the finished net normally due to the poor cohesive force of sustans fiber,resulting in spinning difficulties.Designing a reasonable yarn spinning process is the key to ensure the quality of sustans yarn.The analysis of the relationship between blending process and yarn properties can provide reference for the production and development of sustans blended yarn.By selecting fibers with good spinnability to blend with sustans fibers,the cohesive force between fibers can be increased,thus solving the spinning difficulties caused by the structure of sustans fiber.As a result,the cotton

关 键 词：舒弹丝 棉纤维 前纺 混合工艺 混纺纱 成纱性能 

分 类 号：TS101.921[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]