凉山彝族女衫形制与结构特征研究  

Study on the shape and structure characteristics of sample blouses of Liangshan Yi nationality

作　　者：周雯 陈璐 杜佳灿 ZHOU Wen;CHEN Lu;DU Jiacan(College of Design and Fashion Art,Sichuan Normal University,Chengdu 610101,China)

机构地区：[1]四川师范大学服装与设计艺术学院,成都610101

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第2期77-86,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部青年基金项目(20YJC760026);四川省社科规划一般项目(SC19B114);四川师范大学国家社科基金艺术学项目申报培育项目(XJSK202112108);四川师范大学实验技术与管理项目(SYJS2020004)。

摘　　要：四川凉山地区作为彝族最大的聚集地,因其经济、社会及环境多种因素,凉山彝族服饰保留了较多的古制,具有很高的研究价值。然而,目前关于凉山彝族服饰的研究概述居多而实证偏少,地域分类为主而时代特征区分不足。本文以四川师范大学服装与设计艺术学院收藏的实物服装为样本,通过考据、测绘和结构分解,并结合文献和田野调查进行分析,整理和归纳凉山彝族女衫的形制与结构特征,对民族传统服装的数据和信息进行有益补充。Liangshan Yi clothing is mainly seen in Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan Province and its adjacent counties and districts,generally with thick,simple,warm and durable characteristics.Due to social economy,terrain of mountains and rivers,traffic occlusion and other factors,the traditional clothing under relatively intact conservation has high research value.In recent years,most of the research on Liangshan Yi clothing has focused on its artistic characteristics and folk culture,without the characteristics of the times,structural technology and sample support.Therefore,this paper hopes to make use of the clothing collected in the college for data mapping and analysis,and to provide reference for subsequent related research.The Liangshan area of the Yi nationality is roughly divided into three dialect areas:the Yinuo dialect area,the Shengza dialect area and the Suodi dialect area.The men’s clothing shape and structure,especially men’s pants,are quite different.However,there exists slight difference in the shape and structure of women’s wear,most of which are oblique placket blouse withhalf-sleeve coat,and pleated skirt.The main differences are reflected in color,pattern and decoration matching.Three suits of sample women’s clothing in Yinuo dialect areacollected by the Collegeof Design and Fashion Art of Sichuan Normal University were selected to specifically study the upper outer garment.First,in terms of the shape and structure upper outer garment,the sample women’s inner coat is defined as"blouse"and the outer coat is defined as"outerwear".Based on the sample fabric and craft,they weremost possibly produced between the 1950s and1980s.Then,according to the measurement data and structure drawing,the coat shape and structure of three samples were analyzed and compared.Two prominent features of Liangshan Yi women’s blouse and outerwear structure are summarized.The first is the dual structure characteristics under the overall unification;the second is the material-based application method in

关 键 词：凉山彝族 彝族服装 服装结构 服装裁剪 百褶长裙 罩衣 上衣下裙 

分 类 号：TS941.742.817[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]