唐昭陵壁画女装的3D虚拟试衣结构复原  

Structure restoration of female costumes in Tang Zhaoling frescoes by 3D virtual fitting

作　　者：刘翔 王锐明 徐秋妍 LIU Xiang;WANG Ruiming;SUH Chu Yeon(School of Design,Xianyang Normal University,Xianyang 712000,China;School of Fine Arts,Shaanxi Normal University,Xi’an 710062,China;School of Fashion Design,Dong-A University,Busan 49315,South Korea)

机构地区：[1]咸阳师范学院设计学院,陕西咸阳712000 [2]陕西师范大学美术学院,西安710062 [3]东亚大学服装设计学院,韩国釜山49315

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第2期87-93,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社科项目(21YJA760066);陕西省教育厅高校哲学社会科学重点研究基地项目(14JZ064);陕西省“十四五”规划项目(SGH21Y0189);咸阳师范学院青年骨干教师项目(XSYGG201626)。

摘　　要：唐昭陵保存了初唐时期大量壁画资料,但服装出土实物少,给服装结构的研究带来一定的难度。本文通过对唐昭陵壁画中的女装款式、比例的统计分析,以出现率最高的半臂套装和襦裙套装为研究对象,利用比例换算、CLO3D虚拟试衣实验法测量推算出服装尺寸,并进行试穿实验,复原出服饰结构。通过服装比例比较、可穿性、变形率及压力等评价分析,进一步验证了虚拟复原的可行性。研究得出,壁画中主流款式的服装结构构成形式、服装与身高的比例关系、穿着方法对形态的影响等相关结论,为初唐女装结构与形象研究提供思路与参考。The Tang Dynasty costumes are highly representative in the process of China’s clothing development.The structure of female clothing in the early Tang Dynasty was influenced by the fashion of the previous dynasty and integrated with Tang Dynasty characteristics.Despite abundant researches on the Tang Dynasty costumes,fabric relics are scarcely excavated and research evidence on the costume size is insufficient,making it difficult to study the structure and restoration of Tang Dynasty costumes.However,a large number of frescoes have been unearthed from Zhaoling,the imperial mausoleum of the early Tang Dynasty.The figures and costumes on the portrayals reveal realistic female clothing styles in the early Tang Dynasty,which has an important reference value for the study of female clothing in the Tang Dynasty.Taking the female costumes on Zhaoling frescoes as the research object,this paper deeply analyzes the characteristics of female costumes in the early Tang Dynasty through the costumes and shapes on the frescoes,speculates the mainstream costume structures in the early Tang Dynasty and tries to display the original appearance of costumes by means of virtual restoration,and to further investigate the attire patterns of the Tang costumes.Due to the absence of accurate data caused by the lack of real costumes,this study implemented an experimental virtual restoration of female costumes of the Tang Dynasty frescoes by analyzing a large number of frescoes in Zhaoling.First,through classified statistic of the styles and detailed shapes of female costumes in the frescoes,this study analyzed and concluded that the dominant styles are banbi(a half-sleeved waistcoat),ruqun(a short jacket worn under a long skirt),W-collar,parallel collar,and variegated skirt.Second,using the human body height as the unit and the human body hepta-sector as the criterion,this study measured and calculated the ratio of human height to longitudinal length of banbi and shangru(jacket),and their sleeves,as well as to longitudinal length of xiaqu

关 键 词：唐昭陵 壁画 CLO3D 虚拟试衣 服装结构 服装款式 虚拟复原 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]