南宋赵伯澐墓“编织鞋”技艺研究  

Research on the technique of"Woven Shoes"unearthed from Zhao Boyun’s Tombin the Southern Song Dynasty

作　　者：薛冬梅 赵丰[1,2] 赵安如 王淑娟 XUE Dongmei;ZHAO Feng;ZHAO Anru;WANG Shujuan(College of Fashion and Art Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China;Huangyan Museum,Taizhou 318020,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310002 [3]黄岩博物馆,浙江台州318020

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第2期145-151,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省文物保护科技项目(2020004)。

摘　　要：浙江省台州市黄岩区南宋赵伯澐墓出土一双丝质“编织鞋”,其制作技艺精巧独特,令人称奇。文章运用实物观察、比较分析、推理验证等研究方法,首先对实物进行观察分析,描述其各部分基本特征;然后将“编织鞋”与其他古代鞋履进行比较,宏观上推测其制作方法,进而转入微观视角,绘制鞋面组织结构图,推测鞋面成形工艺;最后以实践的方式进行验证。研究表明:赵伯澐墓“编织鞋”实际是采用了满地环编绣的装饰技法,并非严格意义上的“编织鞋”。通过研究不仅有利于保护与传承传统文化,同时也有助于启发当代织绣设计的创新发展。The tomb of Zhao Boyun excavated in the spring of 2016 in Huangyan District,Taizhou City,Zhejiang Province is a tomb of the Southern Song Dynasty.The owner of the tomb,Zhao Boyun,the seventh grandson of Zhao Kuangyin,the founding emperor of the Northern Song Dynasty,was born in the 25^(th) year of Shaoxing(1155)and died in the 9^(th) year of Jiading(1216).A large number of precious and exquisite cultural relics were unearthed from the tomb,in which silk and clothing accounted for the majority.These clothes of different shapes and silk fabrics of different varieties provide important research materials for the studies on the costume system and the ingenious technique of silk weaving and embroidery in the Southern Song Dynasty.Among these dazzling and precious silk cultural relics,the shoes worn by the tomb owner when he was buried are particularly eye-catching,being named"woven shoes"after being excavated by archaeologists for the obvious woven texture on its surface.This paper chooses this pair of"woven shoes"as the research object to discuss its unique production technique.The article mainly uses the methods of physical observation,comparison and analysis,folk investigation,reasoning and verification and so on to study the production process of the shoes,and the main content includes:Ⅰ)Observing the"woven shoes"as a whole,analyzing the basic characteristics of each part,and comparing the"woven shoes"with ancient shoes unearthed in other areas and other shoes unearthed from the same tomb.The obvious stitching traces can be found on the central line of the shoe face and the central line of the heel,which are actually seams.The topline edging of the shoes is also a common stitch used in ancient shoes.Therefore,the steps to make the vamp of the shoes should be making two planes with needle looping structure according to the shape of the shoes,then suturing them together,and finally wrapping the edges with stitches.It is not the integrated weaving.Ⅱ)After speculating on the whole,from a macro perspective to a mic

关 键 词：赵伯澐 编织鞋 宋代服饰 环编绣 传统工艺 当代织绣设计 

分 类 号：TS943.719[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K875.3[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]