基于外观评价的纬编褶皱造型工艺设计  

Weft-knitted Pleat Modeling Process Design Based on Appearance Evaluation

作　　者：沙莎 魏宛彤 杨雯曈 柯惠珍[2] Sha Sha;Wei Wantong;Yang Wentong;Ke Huizhen(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan,Hubei 430073,China;Fujian Key Laboratory of Novel Functional Textile Fibers and Materials,Minjiang University,Fuzhou,Fujian 350108,China;State Key Laboratory of New Textile Materials and Advanced Processing Technologies,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan,Hubei 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]闽江学院福建省新型功能性纺织纤维及材料重点试验室,福建福州350108 [3]武汉纺织服装数字化工程技术研究中心,湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《针织工业》2021年第12期14-17,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61802285);湖北省教育厅科学研究计划重点项目(D20201704);湖北省服装信息化工程技术研究中心开放基金(184084006);福建省新型功能性纺织纤维及材料重点试验室开放基金(FKLTFM1813);纺织服装福建省高校工程研究中心开放基金(MJFZ18103)。

摘　　要：针对纬编针织物圆弧状凸起的外观造型特征与制作工艺间的关系,通过选择不同制作工艺织造面料试样进行试验,使用数码相机对面料试样进行集中拍摄,采用计算机图像处理法对针织面料试样的客观评价指标进行数据提取,最后使用SPSS对制作工艺和面料外观客观指标进行因子分析及相关性分析,并建立回归预测模型。研究得出的回归预测模型可根据想要得到的面料外观客观指标,即褶皱底边长、圆弧弧长、圆弧峰点夹角α、圆弧起点夹角β和褶皱起点高度,计算出制作工艺起头数和工作区域转数。Aiming at the relationship between the appearance of the arc-shaped protrusions of the weft knitted fabric and the production process, sample fabrics are knitted by choosing different manufacturing processes. In addition, a digital camera is used to intensively photograph the fabric samples. Then, the computer image processing method is used to extract the data of the objective evaluation indicators of the knitted fabric samples.Finally, SPSS is used to perform factor analysis and correlation analysis on the objective indicators of manufacturing process and fabric appearance, and a regression prediction model is built up. The regression prediction model obtained in the research can calculate the starting number of the production process and the number of revolutions in the work area according to the objective indicators of the fabric appearance that you want to get: bottom side length of pleat, arc length, arc peak point angle α, arc starting point angle β and pleat starting point height.

关 键 词：纬编针织物 外观评价 褶皱造型 回归预测模型 针织工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]