羊毛织物苏木染色研究  

Dyeing of Wool Fabric with Hematoxylon

作　　者：贾维妮[1] 李诗雨 姚怡晴 郭建敏 Jia Weini;Li Shiyu;Yao Yiqing;Guo Jianmin(School of Textile and Clothing,Nantong University,Nantong,Jiangsu 226019,China)

机构地区：[1]南通大学纺织服装学院,江苏南通226019

出　　处：《针织工业》2021年第12期43-47,共5页Knitting Industries

基　　金：2020年江苏省产学研合作项目(BY2020556);南通市科技计划项目(JC2020126)。

摘　　要：采用传统水提法进行苏木色素提取制备染液,探讨了苏木色素对羊毛织物直接染色及不同媒染剂媒染染色效果,测试了染色羊毛织物的耐摩擦色牢度、耐皂洗色牢度、耐日晒色牢度和防紫外线性能。结果表明,苏木提取液在可见光区540 nm、紫外光区220 nm和290 nm附近有明显吸收峰;苏木色素上染羊毛织物直接染色条件选取pH值为5、温度为100℃、染色时间为120 min、浴比1∶30;单宁酸同媒染色提高了染色色深和染色牢度,且不影响颜色色相,Cu^(2+)、Fe^(2+)、Al^(3+)等金属离子媒染可丰富染色色相类别,染色羊毛织物UPF值均为100+。The dyeing solution is prepared by extracting sappanwood pigment using the traditional water extraction method. The dyeing effect of sappanwood pigment on wool fabric directly and with different mordants is studied. The color fastness to rubbing, color fastness to soap-washing, color fastness to sunlight and ultraviolet resistance of dyed wool fabric are tested. The results show that there are obvious absorption peaks in visible light region of 540 nm, ultraviolet light region of 220 nm and ultraviolet light region of 290 nm.The direct dyeing conditions of wool fabric dyed with sappanwood pigment are as follows: pH value is 5, temperature is 100 ℃,dyeing time is 120 min and bath ratio is 1 ∶30. Tannic acid co-mordant dyeing can improve the color depth and color fastness without affecting the color hue. Metalion mordant dyeing such as Cu^(2+), Fe^(2+)and Al^(3+)can enrich the types of color hue, and the UPF of dyed wool fabrics is all 100+.

关 键 词：苏木 羊毛织物 染色 单宁酸 

分 类 号：TS193.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]