火麻仁油微乳凝胶面膜的制备及初步评价  

Preparation and Preliminary Evaluation of Hemp Seed Oil Microemulsion Gel Mask

作　　者：牛佳 尉广飞 董林林 Niu Jia;Wei Guangfei;Dong Linlin(College of Pharmacy,Dali University,Dali 671000;Institute of Chinese Materia Medica,China Academy of Chinese Medical Sciences,Beijing 100700,China)

机构地区：[1]大理大学药学院,云南大理671000 [2]中国中医科学院中药研究所,北京100700

出　　处：《广东化工》2022年第1期77-81,65,共6页Guangdong Chemical Industry

基　　金：云南省重大专项(H2021038);国家中医药管理局中药产品海外注册现状调查研究项目(GZYYGJ2020013)。

摘　　要：目的:制备火麻仁油微乳凝胶补水面膜并对其理化性质、保湿性和抗氧化活性进行评价。方法:通过伪三元相图确定火麻仁油微乳最佳处方,采用单因素及正交试验优化火麻仁油微乳凝胶处方,载入保湿活性物质制得火麻仁油微乳凝胶面膜并对其质量、稳定性、保湿性和抗氧化活性进行评价。结果:火麻仁油微乳最佳处方:火麻仁油0.2%、PEG-20氢化蓖麻油0.53%、1,3丙二醇0.27%。火麻仁油微乳凝胶最佳处方为卡波姆-940含量1%,丙三醇含量5%,稀释倍数30倍。制得的微乳凝胶澄清透明、涂展性较好、易清洗、不油腻;平均粒径为(30.91±0.31)nm,PDI为0.299±0.017,电位为(-3.54±0.43)mV;黏度为494725.15 mPa·s;pH值为5.50±0.01;保湿效果优于市售某凝胶面膜;火麻仁油微乳凝胶面膜对DPPH自由基清除率高于火麻仁油毛油,质量浓度为6 mg·mL^(-1)时可达62.39%,IC;为3.71 mg·mL^(-1)。结论:火麻仁油微乳凝胶面膜安全、稳定,制备工艺简单,对皮肤具有良好的补水和抗氧化效果,具备开发和推广的价值。Objective:To prepare the hydrating mask of hemp seed oil micro emulsion gel.And its physical and chemical properties,moisture retention and antioxidant activity were evaluated.Methods:Pseudo-ternary phase diagram would be employed in optimizing the prescription of hemp seed oil micro emulsion.The prescription of hemp seed oil micro emulsion gel was optimized by single factor tests and orthogonal test.The hemp seed oil micro emulsion gel mask was prepared by loading active moisturizing ingredients.And its quality,stability,moisturizing ability and antioxidant activity were evaluated.Results:The optimal formula of micro emulsion was 0.2%hemp seed oil,0.53%PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil,and 0.27%1,3-propanediol.The best prescription of hemp seed oil micro emulsion gel was 1%Carropham-940,5%the glycerol,and 30 times the amount of water added.The appearance of hemp seed oil micro emulsion gel is clear,transparent,ductile and well applied.And it is easy to clean and not greasy.The average grain diameter was(30.91±0.31)nm,PDI was 0.299±0.017,and Zeta potential was(-3.54±0.43)mV.The obtained pH value was 5.50±0.01,the viscosity was 494725.15 mPa·s.Compared with commercial gel mask,this facial mask has a better hydrating effect.And the DPPH·scavenging rate of hemp seed oil micro emulsion gel mask was higher than that of hemp seed oil.When the mass concentration was 6 mg·mL^(-1),it could reach 62.39%,and the IC;of DPPH·scavenging ability were 3.71 mg·mL^(-1).Conclusion:The hemp seed oil micro emulsion gel mask is safe,stable,and the preparation process is simple,and the hydrating and antioxidant effect is excellent on skin.It is expected to be popularized and developed.

关 键 词：火麻仁油 微乳凝胶 面膜 保湿 抗氧化 伪三元相图 

分 类 号：TQ[化学工程]