羊绒条毛用活性染料低损伤染色工艺实践  

Low damage dyeing practice of cashmere with reactive dyes

作　　者：李连锋 王科林 王怀芳 LI Lianfeng;WANG Kelin;WANG Huaifang(Shandong Ruyi Wool Textile Garment Group Co.,Ltd.,Jining,Shandong 272073,China;Ruyi Worsted Fabric Technology R&D Center of China Wool Textile Industry,Jining,Shandong 272073,China;College of Textiles and Clothing,Qingdao University,Qingdao,Shandong 266071,China)

机构地区：[1]山东如意毛纺服装集团股份有限公司,山东济宁272073 [2]中国毛纺织行业如意毛精纺面料技术研发中心,山东济宁272073 [3]青岛大学纺织服装学院,山东青岛266071

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第2期70-74,共5页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为减少羊绒条染过程中对纤维的损伤,以毛用活性染料为例,从加工设备和染色工艺参数优化入手,研究了羊绒条染过程中的装缸密度、循环方式和流量,以及染色保温温度和时间等不同因素对纤维毡并、染色上染量、毛条内外色差、色牢度、纤维强力等性能的综合影响,得出比较适用于企业应用的工艺参数:装缸密度为0.40~0.50 g/cm^(3),染液由内向外循环,流量控制在10~15 L/(kg·min),染色温度90℃,保温时间60 min。通过这些参数的合理搭配应用于批量生产,根据多批次产品细纱千锭断头追踪结果显示,断头明显降低,后道的制成率得以提高,为企业效益的提升奠定良好的基础。In order to reduce the damage to the fiber in the dyeing process of cashmere top,reactive dyes for wool were taken as examples,starting from the optimization of processing equipment and dyeing process parameters,the density of cylinder loading,circulation mode and flow rate in the dyeing process and dyeing temperature and time on different factors,such as fiber mat bonding,dyeing up-taking rate,color difference between inside and outside of the wool,color fastness,fiber strength and other properties,were studied and the process parameters suitable for enterprise application were obtained:the cylinder density was 0.40-0.50 g/cm^(3),the dye solution was circulated from inside to outside with a flow rate of 10-15 L/(kg·min),the dyeing temperature was 90℃and the holding time was 60 min.Through reasonable combination application of these parameters to batch production,the broken end is significantly reduced,the production rate of the last track is improved according to the multi-batch product spinning thousand spindle broken end tracking,which is beneficial for the improvement of enterprise efficiency.

关 键 词：羊绒纤维 设备损伤 工艺控制 染色 强力变化 

分 类 号：TS193.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]