天丝/PBT色织弹力绉织物的设计与生产  

Design and Production of Tencel/PBT Elastic Crepe Fabric

作　　者：冯圣国 蔡永东 FENG Sheng-guo;CAI Yong-dong(Jiangsu Sidefu New Material Co.,Ltd.,Nantong 226009,China;Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226006,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏斯得福新材料有限公司,江苏南通226009 [2]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226006

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2022年第2期37-38,41,共3页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心资助项目(苏政办[2014]-22-3-4)。

摘　　要：采用14.6tex天丝/PBT混纺弹力纱与14.8tex天丝纯纺纱按1∶4间隔排列,利用凸条组织与平纹相结合,使布面形成局部泡泡和凸条,开发出一种天丝/PBT色织弹力绉织物。简要介绍了PBT纤维性能与应用特点;对产品生产过程中的纱线染色、整经、浆纱、织造及后整理等工序的关键生产技术要点作了全面分析与介绍。织物经整理后,产品风格独特,立体感强,绉效应自然,适宜制作高档女装裙料产品。A Tencel/PBT elastic crepe fabric was developed by using 14.6 tex Tencel/PBT blended elastic yarn and 14.8 tex Tencel pure spinning arrangedat 1:4 intervals.By using the combination of rib structure and plain weave,the fabric surface formed local bubbles and ribs.The properties and application characteristics of PBT fiber were briefly introduced.The key technical points of yarn dyeing,warping,sizing,weaving and finishing in the production process were analyzed and introduced.After finishing the fabric,the product had unique style,strong stereo sense and natural crepe effect,which was suitable for making high-grade dress products.

关 键 词：色织物 PBT纤维 纱线染色 后整理 绉效应 

分 类 号：TS106[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]