基于生织匹染工艺的宋锦产品设计  

Design of Song brocade products based on the raw fabric piece dyeing process

作　　者：温润[1] 王桂芳 吴思洋 沈华[1] WEN Run;WANG Guifang;WU Siyang;SHEN Hua(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201600,China;Shanghai Museum,Shanghai 200003,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院,上海201600 [2]上海博物馆,上海200003

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2022年第2期141-147,168,共8页Advanced Textile Technology

基　　金：上海市哲学社会科学规划课题(2020BWY032)。

摘　　要：针对宋锦产品生产成本高、受众面小的问题,提出了利用蚕丝与涤纶染色差异,将生织匹染工艺用于宋锦产品创新。通过对知名品牌宋锦产品的调研,得出地、花两色灰度比值区间,继而设计染色实验获得染色温度、保温时间、染料用量3因素对蚕丝和涤纶上色的影响,并通过正交实验优化染色工艺,获得与调研相匹配的染色方案,使宋锦实现双色或多色效果。研究表明:宋锦地色、花色灰度的常规比值范围在0.4~0.6;酸性环境下高温更利于蚕丝染色,且染料用量在1%~3%(o.w.f)间上染变化明显;蚕丝、涤纶染色差异与灰度比值符合调研结果,可通过生织匹染或与色织结合开发出年轻化、低成本及多样化的宋锦产品。In order to solve the problems of Song brocade products,that is,high production cost and small target audience,this paper puts forward the innovation and development of Song brocade products via raw fabric piece dyeing process by utilizing the dyeing difference between silk and polyester.Through an investigation of famous Song brocade products,the gray ratio range between two colors,that is,background color and floral color is obtained,and then a dyeing experiment is designed to acquire the effect of three factors,on dyeing temperature,holding time and dye dosage on the coloring of silk and polyester.The dyeing process is optimized through an orthogonal experiment,and a dyeing scheme matching the survey is obtained,so that Song brocades can achieve a bi-color or multi-color effect.The results show that the conventional gray ratio range of background color to floral color of Song brocade is 0.4~0.6.In an acidic environment,high temperature is more beneficial to silk dyeing,and the change of dyeing is distinct when the dye dosage is between 1%and 3%(o.w.f).The dyeing difference and gray ratio of silk and polyester are in line with the survey results.Young,low-cost and diversified Song brocade products can be developed through raw fabric piece dyeing or yarn dyed weaving.

关 键 词：宋锦 生织匹染 涤纶 灰度值 产品设计 

分 类 号：TS1[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程] TS106.84