面向实际工程应用的参数化旗袍样板构建  

Construction of parameterized cheongsam pattern for practical engineering application

作　　者：程明[1] 赵燕辉 余卫华[1] 杨祖凤 方佳[1] 王维杰 CHENG Ming;ZHAO Yanhui;YU Weihua;YANG Zufeng;FANG Jia;WANG Weijie(Sichuan Academy of Silk Sciences,Chengdu 610031,China;Nanchong Jinfuchun Silk Co.,Ltd.,Nanchong 637919,China;College of Biomass Science and Technology,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China)

机构地区：[1]四川省丝绸科学研究院,成都610031 [2]南充金富春丝绸有限公司,四川南充637919 [3]四川大学轻工科学与工程学院,成都610065

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第3期7-19,共13页Journal of Silk

基　　金：四川省科技计划项目(2020YFG0221)。

摘　　要：为提高现代旗袍的个性化制版效率,同时立足于工程实用性,解决三维服装展平样板和参数化编程技术无法面向实际工程应用的问题,本文提出一种基于AutoCAD参数化功能与圆弧拟合服装样板曲线方法的旗袍参数化结构设计模型。该参数化模型包含常规放码与个性化尺寸定制两种模式,通过输入个性化的人体测量数据,可以快速生成合体的个性化旗袍样板。实验结果显示,该旗袍参数化结构设计模型能够在1 s内快速生成符合工程实际应用要求的个性化旗袍样板,虚拟试衣和压力仿真结果表明样板能够满足人体穿着的合体性,基于30个压力点的测量数值基本小于5 kPa,符合压力舒适性要求。相比其他同类技术,本文方法能有效降低旗袍参数化样板制作门槛,参数化样板体现出良好的工程实用性,具有较好的普及价值。Cheongsam customization business mostly relies on the traditional manual customization mode,that is,measuring and tailoring according to the customer’s individual body size.It requires to redraw garment patterns for different customers,leading to a lot of repeated labor in the cheongsam customization process,and affecting the efficiency of personalized pattern making.Two technologies have been introduced to improve the efficiency of cheongsam pattern making,including 3D garment pattern flattening technology and automatic pattern generation technology based on parametric design.However,the 2D garment pattern sheet obtained by 3D garment pattern flattening technology has distortion problem,limiting its application in actual production scenes.At the same time,the automatic pattern generation technology based on parametric design principle needs to be realized by professional plotting program,increasing the application threshold of the technology.In addition,the plotted pattern cannot interact with other clothing CAD software,which is not conductive to its application in practical scenarios.In order to solve the problem that the 3D garment flattening pattern and parametric programming methods cannot realize actual engineering application,a parametric structural design model of modern cheongsam was established by fitting the curves of cheongsam sample with the single arc,double arc and triple arc based on the structural design principle of modern cheongsam and the geometric constraint and dimensional constraint functions in AutoCAD software.Finally,the rapid responsiveness of the parametric model to individual body size was verified by debugging experiments,and the fitness and pressure comfort of the parameterized cheongsam sample were verified by virtual model fitting and pressure simulation in CLO3D software.We also verified the advancement of the method in this paper by comparing it with the 3D pattern flattening and parametric programming method.In this paper,a non-programming method was adopted to create the pa

关 键 词：AUTOCAD 圆弧拟合曲线 参数化 旗袍 服装样板 制板效率 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]