面料性能对A字裙动态造型的影响  

Influence of fabric performance on the dynamic shape of A-line skirt

作　　者：黄雪纯 刘成霞[1,2] HUANG Xuechun;LIU Chengxia(Zhejiang Province Engineering Laboratory of Clothing Digital Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装数字化技术浙江省工程实验室,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第3期59-67,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(51405446);浙江省自然科学基金项目(LY20E050017)。

摘　　要：为探究面料性能对A字裙动态造型的影响,文章借助三维动捕仪获得受试者穿着A字裙以6 km/h匀速运动时,腰围、臀围及摆围标记点的坐标,通过GA-BP神经网络拟合曲线,提取曲线裙厚、裙宽、周长和面积作为外轮廓造型参数,并引入动态偏移值表征三围曲线的动静态造型变化。研究结果表明:纬密与腰围曲线裙宽、周长和面积显著正相关;悬垂系数与臀围曲线裙厚、周长和面积显著负相关;纬向抗弯刚度与摆围曲线裙宽、周长和面积显著正相关。经纬向抗弯刚度与右前腰区域在人体前后方向上的偏移值显著正相关;总折皱回复角与后腰区域在人体前后方向上的偏移值显著正相关;经纬密与左臀区域在人体前后方向上的偏移值正相关。Fashion styling refers to the external form of fashion,which exists based on three-dimensional space as the comprehensive manifestation of fashion styling silhouette in all directions.During the epidemic,with the rapid development of the field of fashion e-commerce,the emerging technology of dynamic virtual display of clothing has become a new marketing tool for merchants to attract customers,for which the study of fashion styling provides a theoretical basis.However,traditional research has focused on exploring the impact of fabric performance,pattern structure and other factors on the static shape of fashion,which cannot provide a reference for the dynamic shape of clothing.In addition,the previous studies are undiversified,and no comparative analysis of dynamic and static styling of fashion is made.Besides,the outer contour curve parameters of fashion styling are mostly selected to quantify the styling,lacking the refined parameters to describe the dynamic and static styling changes in different areas of the curve.Therefore,this paper selects the most representative A-line skirt item in women’s skirts as the research object to explore the influence of fabric performance on the dynamic shape of A-line skirts.In order to study the change of A-skirt attire form caused by human movement,this paper starts with the real-life attire movement experiment and selects the outer contour curve of A-skirt waistline,hipline and hem circumference for research.The Mark balls controlled by 3D motion capture system are pasted to the positioning points of the human body,the marking points of the legs,the waistline,hipline and hem circumference marking points respectively.With the aid of a three-dimensional motion capture instrument,the three-dimensional coordinates of all the marked points were obtained when the subject wore an A-line skirt made of five different fabrics in a static state and in a state of 6 km/h uniform motion.In order to obtain experimental data of the subject in the same locomotor stance,the angle of the sub

关 键 词：面料悬垂性 A字裙 三维动作捕捉 GA-BP神经网络 曲线拟合 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]