土家数纱花纹样特征及造物美学新探  

New investigation of the pattern characteristics and creational aesthetics of Tujia Shusha

作　　者：王娇[1] 李正[2] 钟苡君 WANG Jiao;LI Zheng;ZHONG Yijun(Institute of Art&Design,Changsha University of Science&Technology,Changsha 410114,China;School of Art,Soochow University,Suzhou 215123,China;Art Design Institute,Hunan Women’s University,Changsha 410004,China)

机构地区：[1]长沙理工大学设计艺术学院,长沙410114 [2]苏州大学艺术学院,江苏苏州215123 [3]湖南女子学院美术与设计学院,长沙40007

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第3期141-149,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：湖南省教育厅科学研究优秀青年项目(19B025)。

摘　　要：土家数纱花是土家族古朴艺术的表现形式之一,其造物艺术形式却独具土家特色。文章以土家族现存的挑绣作品为研究对象,通过文献研究、实物分析及复原设计对土家族数纱花纹样特点及构图规律进行总结,同时通过实地调研、对比分析土家苗瑶族数纱花在艺术表现上的差异,从而深入探究表象艺术下折射出的土家文化内涵。研究表明:土家数纱花与苗、瑶族数纱花有相似之处,但也存在一定视觉差异。土家数纱花纹样题材丰富多样,构图、色彩与整体布局都充分展现出土家挑绣文化的造物美学思想。土家数纱花以小众艺术形式添补了土家文化的诠释。Tujia Shusha is one of the manifestation forms of primitive Tujia art,and its creational art form has unique Tujia characteristics.However,it attracts far less attention than the brocade of Tujia,known as Xilankapu,which Tujia people are skilled in weaving.There are few written records in early books and only over 30 pictures of real works are available.With the existing cross-stitch embroidery works of Tujia as the research object,this paper analyzes the concept of Tujia Shusha based on literature research,and distinguishes the handcrafts of"Xilankapu","Colorful Belt"and"Shusha".The theme of Tujia Shusha is rich and varied,and its composition,color and overall layout fully show Tujia cross-stitch embroidery culture.An analysis of real objects and restoring design is carried out to interpret patterns of Tujia Shusha.This paper makes a systematic and classified analysis of all Tujia Shusha works.The patterns can be classified into round,corner,side,central filling and broken branch patterns.The extraction elements of the patterns can be divided into the categories of curved patterns,animals,plants,texts,figures and folklore,which is similar to the classification form of the patterns in"Xilankapu",and most of the pattern prototypes come from people’s production and life.In pattern structures of Tujia Shusha,the composition forms of"十","米"and"丨"are commonly seen.Most of the existing literature studies the form of the Miao Shusha,and there are also detailed comparative studies on Shusha forms in Miao nationality,different regions or different branches of Yao nationality.Tujia Shusha is similar to those of Miao and Yao,but is still different visually to some extent.A comparative analysis of them is conducted in the four aspects of techniques,colors,patterns and styles.Tujia Shusha is simpler and straighter,in strict accordance with the rules of"three warp lines and four weft lines"and"crisscrossed short stitches",and plain and diagonal stitches are used occasionally for plain embroidery in addition to common s

关 键 词：土家数纱花 纹样分类 纹样骨骼 纹样对比 造物美学 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]