清代台湾少数民族平埔系族群服饰文献考  

Literature Research on the Costumes of Pingpu Ethnic Groups in Taiwan in the Qing Dynasty

作　　者：项春雷 陈东生[2] XIANG Chunlei;CHEN Dongsheng(Journal Editorial Department,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology,Nanchang 330201 China;Chinese Costume Culture Research Center,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology,Nanchang 330201 China)

机构地区：[1]江西服装学院学报编辑部,南昌330201 [2]江西服装学院中华服饰文化研究中心,南昌330201

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第1期26-36,共11页Fashion Guide

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(18YJA760001)。

摘　　要：[研究意义]台湾少数民族是多元一体中华民族大家庭的重要成员,其独特的传统文化是中华文化的重要组成部分,颇具研究价值。台湾少数民族支族众多,可分为平埔系、高山系两类。[研究方法]文章以清代为时间范畴,基于同时期相关文献,对平埔系族群服饰进行考据。选取最具史料价值的文字类文献进行梳理分析,辅以具有代表性的绘画类文献进行比较印证。[研究结果与结论]研究认为:清代相关文献存在缺乏科学的研究体系和方法、诸多表述逻辑不清的缺陷,基于文献的平埔系族群服饰研究不能以"区分支族,逐个研究"的方式进行,而应"不分支族,整体把握"。总体上,平埔系族群服装材质有无纺材料和纺织材料两种,无纺材料服装形制有上衣、鞋,纺织材料服装形制有围身、短衣、长衣、受臂、围腰、遮阴、束胫七种;饰品种类繁多,制作饰品的素材有动物材料、植物材料、金属材料、矿物材料、织物材料,佩戴部位有头部、耳部、颈部、手臂、腹部、腿脚;在妆容方面,有披散、束发、剪发等发型,惯于穿耳、扩耳,有损齿、黑齿、纹身的习俗,会刻意除去胡须及体毛。Taiwan’s ethnic minority has many branches. Based on geography and sinicization degree, these branches are divided into Gaoshan system and Pingpu system. Because of the deep integration with the Han culture, the Pingpu ethnic groups had not attracted enough attention from scholars in the early stage. With the gradual awakening of ethnic consciousness, especially after the 1990 s, the research on Pingpu ethnic groups has been refined and deepened, and a large number of research results have emerged. These research results focus on the geographical distribution, ethnic classification, language and social organization of Pingpu ethnic groups, but less on their traditional costumes. Because there are few samples of traditional costumes of Pingpu ethnic groups, and their memory of traditional culture is almost lost, the research on traditional costumes of Pingpu ethnic groups depends on historical literature. By combing the works related to the traditional costumes of Pingpu ethnic groups, it can be found that almost all of them cite the records of Pingpu ethnic costumes in the relevant literature in the Qing Dynasty,which shows the basic position of these literature in the Qing Dynasty in such research. In view of this, this paper attempts to study the costumes of Pingpu ethnic groups in the Qing Dynasty based on the relevant literature in the Qing Dynasty. This paper selects the four most valuable ones from the relevant text literature in the Qing Dynasty — Bi Hai Ji You, Zhu Luo Xian Zhi, Tai Hai Shi Cha Lu and Ga Ma Lan Ting Zhi, as well as the two most representative painting literature — Huang Qing Zhi Gong Tu and Fan She Cai Feng Tu as foundational data. By extracting, sorting, classifying and comparing the records of Pingpu ethnic costumes in these four text literature, it is found that these literature have natural defects, that is, lack of scientific research system and methods, and unclear logic in many descriptions. Therefore, the research on the traditional costumes of Pingpu ethnic groups can not b

关 键 词：平埔族 服饰 服装 台湾 清代 文献 

分 类 号：J523.5[艺术—艺术设计]