新型高支经起花轻薄舒适纯棉色织百褶面料的开发与生产  

Development and Production of New-type High-count Warp Figured Lightweight Comfortable Yarn-dyed Pleated Fabric Made from Pure Cotton

作　　者：许东 

机构地区：[1]鲁泰纺织股份有限公司

出　　处：《纺织导报》2022年第2期68-70,72,共4页China Textile Leader

摘　　要：文章介绍了一款自主开发的新型高支经起花纯棉色织百褶面料的设计和关键生产技术。采用经起花和平纹的联合组织,合理地进行纹样配置;整经时要注意张力、排列、卷绕均匀;浆纱重在贴伏毛羽和增加耐磨;采用OptiMax型剑杆织机,双轴织造,最终保证了产品的顺利生产,织机效率达到90%。生产的面料纹样美观新颖,适合做时尚女装面料。此外,还可利用不同的整理工艺及加捻技术开发不同类型风格的面料,形成差异化系列化产品。This paper introduces the design and key production technology of the independently developed new-type high-count warp figured yarn-dyed pleated fabric made from pure cotton.The pattern was reasonably configured by adopting warp figured texture and plain combination weave.Attention should be paid to the evenness of the tension,arrangement,and winding during the warping.The sizing process should focus on reducing hairiness and increasing abrasion resistance property.Double beams on the OptiMax rapier loom ensure production.And the loom efficiency was reached up to 90%.The produced fabric patterns are fashionable and attractive,which are suitable for women’s wear.In addition,by using different finishing processes and different types of twisting technology differentiated and serialized products can be produced.

关 键 词：纯棉色织 捻度 松式整理 经起花 百褶面料 

分 类 号：TS116[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]