不同受损情况下珊瑚礁海岸动力地貌差异性分析  

Morphodynamic analysis on fringing reef coasts under different damage conditions

作　　者：陈燕珊 戚洪帅 杨清书 蔡锋 刘根 朱君 赵绍华 Chen Yanshan;Qi Hongshuai;Yang Qingshu;Cai Feng;Liu Gen;Zhu Jun;Zhao Shaohua(Institute of Estuarine and Coastal Research,School of Marine Engineering and Technology,Sun Yat-sen University,Guangzhou 510275,China;Laboratory of Ocean and Coast Geology,Third Institute of Oceanography,Ministry of Natural Resources,Xiamen 361005,China;State and Local Joint Engineering Laboratory of Estuarine Hydraulic Technology,Guangzhou 510275,China;Guangdong Provincial Engineering Research Center of Coasts,Islands and Reefs,Zhuhai 510275,China;Observation and Research Station of Coastal Wetland Ecosystem in Beibu Gulf,Minstry of Natural Resources,Beihai 536015,China)

机构地区：[1]中山大学海洋工程与技术学院中山大学河口海岸研究所,广东广州510275 [2]自然资源部第三海洋研究所海洋与海岸地质研究室,福建厦门361005 [3]河口水利技术国家地方联合工程实验室,广东广州510275 [4]广东省海岸与岛礁工程技术研究中心,广东珠海510275 [5]自然资源部北部湾滨海湿地生态系统野外科学观测研究站,广西北海536015

出　　处：《海洋学报》2022年第3期61-69,共9页

基　　金：自然科学基金重点项目(41930538);自然科学基金面上项目(42076058);自然资源部第三海洋研究所基科项目(2019026)。

摘　　要：探索珊瑚礁与海滩地貌之间动力地貌联系是认识珊瑚礁海岸变化的重要一环。本文以雷州半岛徐闻西落港珊瑚礁海岸为研究对象,应用RTK-GPS和无人船开展岸滩剖面和近岸水下地形的测量、结合海滩沉积物分析,基于FUNWAVE-TVD数值模型模拟并分析不同珊瑚礁地形地貌条件下波浪动力传播过程。结果显示,研究区珊瑚礁水下地形是影响礁后海滩地貌的主要因素。礁体形态不同,导致其礁后海滩在珊瑚礁地形控制下,短波波能和次重力波波能沿程呈现不同变化规律,最终导致礁后海滩的近岸波能主控频段的差异,在较窄的珊瑚礁海岸,次重力波占比较大。在不同主控频段波浪驱动下,礁后海滩平衡剖面呈现差异性特征,Munóz-Pérez提出的珊瑚礁后海滩平衡剖面拟合中未考虑该因素的影响,需要在此认识基础上进一步改进。Morphodynamic relationships between fringing reefs and back-reef beach play key roles in understanding the evolution of coral coasts. The fringing reef coasts of Leizhou Peninsula, in Xiluo Port, Xuwen, are taken as the research object in this paper. RTK-GPS and unmanned-surface-vessel are used to measure and analyze the topography of the beach profile and reef as well as the sediment sampling in beach. FUNWAVE-TVD is used to simulate and analyze the hydrodynamic process of short wave and infragravity wave cross the different reef. The results show that the reef topography in the study area has significant effects on the morphology of back-reef beach.Whether the nearshore wave energy dominated by the short wave band or the infragravity band is controlled by the topography. In the narrow reef, there is a predominance of infragravity energy near the back-reef beach. The dominated wave band in the nearshore wave energy is the main factor shape the back-reef beach equilibrium profile.However, the beach equilibrium profile model of coral coast proposed by Munóz-Pérez did not take this factor into account, it need to further research.

关 键 词：珊瑚礁海岸 FUNWAVE-TVD 次重力波 动力地貌 海滩平衡剖面 

分 类 号：P737.1[天文地球—海洋地质]