嘉兴王店明代李氏墓出土服饰形态及成因  

A Research on the Patterns and Their Background of Costumes Unearthed from the Tomb of Li Family of the Ming Dynasty in Wangdian, Jiaxing

作　　者：刘鹤[1] 余美莲[1] Liu He;Yu Meilian(Design College,Jiaxing University,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314000)

机构地区：[1]嘉兴学院设计学院,浙江嘉兴314000

出　　处：《嘉兴学院学报》2022年第2期26-33,69,共9页Journal of Jiaxing University

基　　金：浙江省哲学社会科学规划一般项目(18NDJC078YB)。

摘　　要：李氏墓是明代嘉靖至万历年间文化家族墓葬,基于其出土文物,结合明代中后期社会背景和审美意识,从形制、纹样、质地、工艺等方面研究出土服饰的形态特征,论述服饰制度、社会风尚、思潮文化、行业发展对服饰形态特征的影响,认为出土服饰形制新奇多样、纹样多元丰满、面料高贵精美、装饰精巧细腻,其独特的形态特征印证了明代中后期经济繁荣背景下求新趋异的服饰审美和奢靡、世俗化的社会风尚,反映了墓主人李氏家族显赫的身份和地位,同时也佐证了明代嘉兴地区高超的织造技艺。The tomb of Li Family in Wangdian, Jiaxing belongs to a cultural family during the Jiajing and the Wanli Periods in the Ming dynasty. Based on its unearthed cultural relics, combining with the social background and aesthetic awareness in the middle and late Ming dynasty, this paper studies the morphological characteristics of its unearthed costumes on the aspects of shape, pattern, texture, craftsmanship, etc., and discusses the influence from dressing codes, fashion, ideological trend and culture and industry development on them. The unearthed costumes have novel and various shapes, diversified and rich patterns, expensive and exquisite fabrics and ingenious and delicate decorations. Their unique morphological characteristics confirm the aesthetic taste of clothes that pursues novelty and diversity and the extravagant and secularized fashion under the background of the economic prosperity in the middle and late Ming dynasty, and reflect the prominent identity and status of the Li Family, and also prove the superb weaving skill level in Jiaxing in the Ming dynasty.

关 键 词：明代 李氏墓 出土服饰 形制 纹样 社会风尚 

分 类 号：TS941.742.48[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]