竞技攀岩比赛生物学特征的科学分析及建议  

Biological Features and Applications for Sport Climbing Competition

作　　者：游国鹏[1,2] 王健清 郭梁 陈超[1] 吴瑛[1] YOU Guopeng;WANG Jianqing;GUO Liang;CHEN Chao;WU Ying(Shanghai University of Sport,Shang hai 200438,China;ChangzhiMedical College,Chang-zhi 046000,China;South China Normal University,Guangzhou 510631,China.)

机构地区：[1]上海体育学院,上海200438 [2]长治医学院,山西长治046000 [3]华南师范大学,广东广州510631

出　　处：《中国体育科技》2022年第2期41-46,共6页China Sport Science and Technology

基　　金：国家社会科学基金项目(19FTYB009)。

摘　　要：通过查阅国内外攀岩相关研究文献,按比赛负荷、能量代谢、神经肌肉募集及专项力量特征3个方面进行系统综述。研究显示:竞技攀岩各单项比赛的时间和强度特征差异较大;各单项均需重视发展有氧与无氧供能能力;比赛中岩点特征影响上肢神经肌肉募集,手部与岩点接触力值与攀登中指浅屈肌的积分肌电值呈非线性关系;前臂肌肉的间歇性等长收缩对比赛生物学特征有较大影响,是运动表现的重要限制因素。建议未来在竞技攀岩项目训练中兼顾各单项比赛生物学特征的异同,促进形成协同效应。Based on the domestic and foreign literature reviews of sport climbing, the study analyzed the biological features of sport climbing competition in terms of competition load,energy metabolism, neuromuscular recruitment and specific strength characteristics. The results indicate that there are differences in time and intensity features of each subunit competition. Attentions should be paid to develop aerobic and anaerobic metabolism in each subunit.The features of rock point will act on the patterns of neuromuscular recruitment of upper limb muscles, there is a non-linear relationship between the hand-and-hold contact force and the integral electromyography of flexor digitorum superficialis. The intermittent isometric contraction of forearm muscle has a great influence on the biological features of the competition. It is an important limiting factor of sports performance. Sport climbing team should be trained based on the similarities and differences of competition features among each subunit, to form synergistic effect in order to realize the rapid development of sport climbing in combined competitions.

关 键 词：竞技攀岩 比赛负荷 能量代谢 神经肌肉募集 专项力量 

分 类 号：G881[文化科学—体育训练]