附加纬接结的双层全显色结构设计原理和方法  

Design principle and method of double-layer full-color structure with central weft stitching

作　　者：张萌[1] 周赳[1] ZHANG Meng;ZHOU Jiu(Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2022年第3期83-88,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：浙江省教育厅项目(Y201942285)。

摘　　要：针对附加纬接结双面提花织物双层结构复杂、织纹色彩简单和设计效率低的问题,在分层组合设计模式下,提出一种基于附加纬接结双层全显色结构的设计方法。通过在表里层组织结构上设置可遮盖组织、设计可遮盖全显色组织分别用于表层结构和里层结构、以及设计通用型附加纬接结组织,建立附加纬接结双面全显色提花织物结构设计方法,以单层提花织物形式分别设计表层结构和里层结构,通过通用型附加纬接结组织合成双层结构。结果显示,分层组合设计模式使附加纬接结双层提花织物结构的设计程序更加简洁,提升了结构稳定性,减少了结构设计返修率,提高了设计效率,织物两面的色彩更加细腻。In order to solve the problems of complicated weave structure,simple weave pattern and color,and low design efficiency on double-face jacquard fabrics with central weft stitching,a double-layer full-color structure with central weft stitching was presented based on layer-combination design principle.The research concentrates on methods for coverable weave design,coverable full-color weave design for surface and inner structures,and in particular the central weft stitch weave design.The design method of double-layer full-color structure with central weft stitching was established.The surface and inner structures were designed in the form of single jacquard fabric,and the double-layer structure was accomplished by using particular central weft stitch weaves.The results show that the layer-combination design method simplifies the design process,improves the structural stability,reduces the repair rate of structural design,enhances the design efficiency,and intensifies the color on both sides.

关 键 词：数码提花 双面织物 提花织物 双层结构 附加纬接结 全显色组织 

分 类 号：TS105.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]