昆曲生旦造型在现代服装设计中的创新运用  

The Innovative Application of Kunqu Shengdan Modeling in fashion Design

作　　者：孟娟[1] KMeng Juan(Suzhou Institute of Trade&Commerce Jiangsu Suzhou,215009)

机构地区：[1]苏州经贸职业技术学院,江苏苏州215009

出　　处：《江苏丝绸》2022年第1期33-39,共7页Jiangsu Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目--苏州剧装制作技艺与当代传承研究(20YJA760014)。

摘　　要：本文主要撷取了昆曲行当中主角的生旦造型作为研究方向,并以昆曲《墙头马上》的生旦造型为主要研究对象,进行分析研究,盘点了昆曲生旦行当中的角色类型及特征,总结生旦造型在当下潮流趋势下的服装设计创新模式。昆曲《墙头马上》是元代戏曲家白朴的成名之作。从剧作本身到角色、场景、服化道都充分表现了中国戏曲的魅力所在,一直以来都是昆曲作品中的沧海遗珠。在昆曲的舞台艺术中,风格迥异的行当造型在表达人物性格特征的同时,又能通过视觉形式传达美学。This paper mainly extracts the Shengdan modeling of the leading role in Kunqu Opera as the research direction, and takes the shape of the Shengdan of the Kunqu Opera " Pei Shaojun And Li Qianjun" as the main research object, conducts analysis and research, and counts the types and characteristics of the role of the Kunqu Opera. Summarize the innovative model of Shengdan modeling under the current trend. Kunqu opera " Pei Shaojun And Li Qianjun" is a famous work of Bai Pu in yuan Dynasty. From the play itself to the roles, scenes and the way of dressing, it fully shows the charm of Chinese opera and has always been a relic of the vicissitudes of Kunqu opera works. In the stage art of Kunqu Opera, the models of different styles can not only express characters’ characteristics,but also convey aesthetics through visual forms.

关 键 词：新昆曲 墙头马上 生旦造型 图案 服装设计 

分 类 号：TS941[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]