不同滩形对卷波破碎引起的紊动能量与能损分析  

Analysis of turbulent energy and energy loss caused by wave breaking on different beach shapes

作　　者：刘文帅 郑建国[1,2,3] 张翀岳 金智涛 许国辉 LIU Wen-shuai;ZHENG Jian-guo;ZHANG Chong yue;JIN Zhi-tao;XU Guo-hui(Key Laboratory of Marine Environment and Ecology,Ministry of Education,Qingdao 266100,China;Shandong Provincial Key Laboratory of Marine Environment and Geological Engineering;College of Environmental Science and Engineering,Ocean University of China,Qingdao 266100,China)

机构地区：[1]中国海洋大学海洋环境与生态教育部重点实验室,山东青岛266100 [2]中国海洋大学山东省海洋环境地质工程重点实验室,山东青岛266100 [3]中国海洋大学环境科学与工程学院,山东青岛266100

出　　处：《海洋湖沼通报》2022年第1期1-8,共8页Transactions of Oceanology and Limnology

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(41576039)资助。

摘　　要：卷破波对海岸具有强烈的侵蚀作用,其破波能量变化是评估岸线侵蚀的重要参照。本文基于FLOW-3D软件,对平直滩形和沙纹滩形上卷破波的破碎进行了模拟,在验证模拟可靠性的基础上,获得破浪破碎造成的紊动能量与波高、坡度和地形的关系。通过快速傅里叶变换和波能计算公式求得各工况破碎前后波能和破波能损率,发现平直滩形破波能损与坡度和波高有关,沙纹滩形破波能损率变化较为复杂,并从破波区域内沙坝影响波浪破碎的角度对沙纹滩形破波能损率的变化进行了解释。Plunging breaker wave has a strong erosion effect on the coast, and the energy variation of the wave breaking is an important reference for evaluating the shoreline erosion. By using FLOW-3D simulation software, this paper simulates the breaking process of waves on straight slope beaches and ripple-type beaches. On the basis of verifying the reliability of the simulation, the turbulent energy caused by breaking of waves is obtained. Relationships between turbulent energy and wave height, slope and topography are also obtained. The FFT and the wave energy calculation formula are used to obtain the wave energy and wave energy loss rate before and after breaking of each working condition. It is found that for straight slope beaches, the wave energy loss is related to the slope and wave height, but for ripple-type beaches, the wave energy loss is more complicated. In this paper, the wave-breaking energy loss rate variation of ripple-type beach is explained from the perspective of wave breaking caused by sand bar in the wave broken region.

关 键 词：沙纹滩形 FLOW-3D 卷破波 紊动能量 波浪能量 

分 类 号：P737.17[天文地球—海洋地质]