素纱襌衣的面料构成分析与复织  

Fabric composition analysis and reweaving of the gauze gown in plain color

作　　者：戴健 许鼎龙 孙迎 邱雪琳 DAI Jian;XU Dinglong;SUN Ying;QIU Xuelin(Nanjing Jinxiu Shengshi Brocade Weaving Limited Company,Nanjing 210049,China;Hangzhou Wensli Silk Culture Limited Company,Hangzhou 310021,China;School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Inheriting and Products DesignDigital Technology,Ministry of Culture and Tourism,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]南京锦绣盛世云锦织造有限公司,南京210049 [2]杭州万事利丝绸文化有限公司,杭州310021 [3]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [4]浙江理工大学丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化和旅游部重点实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第4期1-8,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：文化与旅游部重点实验室资助项目(19076223-B)。

摘　　要：长沙马王堆汉墓出土的329-6直裾式素纱襌衣属于国宝级保护文物,是中国古代丝织技艺的杰出代表。本文基于前人研究成果和文物出土报告相关资料,深度探讨了组成面料的材料规格和组织结构,在有限接触原文物条件下,分析并补充了素纱襌衣的细部量化数据。经反复试验与校对,还原了素纱襌衣的版型结构、材料规格、组织结构、织造工艺和复织过程,并据此展开复织工作。通过实物对比,复织品的外观造型和质感风格还原度较高,整体质量仅46 g。本文的分析和复织工作为复原类似古丝绸文物提供理论与技术参考。In the early 1970s,Mawangdui No.1 Han tomb beside Liuyang River in the eastern suburb of Changsha was successfully excavated,and the gauze gowns in plain color unearthed from it attracted extensive attention from people inside and outside the industry.The 329-6 gauze gown in plain color with straight style,cross collar and right lapel weighs only 49 grams in total.Except that the collar and cuffs are made of looped brocade with lining,the whole garment is woven from a plain square hole crepe that is thin and transparent.The gauze gown in plain color is as light as mist,and as thin as a cicada’s wings,and its exquisite manufacturing skills represent the highest level of sericulture,silk reeling and weaving technique in the early Western Han Dynasty.In 2002,the gauze gown in plain color was included in the"First List of Cultural Relics Prohibited from Going Abroad(Border)"by the National Cultural Heritage Administration,and it is collected by Hunan Museum now.However,in the past 50 years,the research on its pattern design,material specification,fabric weave and weaving technique has not been in-depth and complete.It is of great significance to deeply study the fabric composition and weaving process of the gauze gown in plain color to inherit the thousand-year-old silk weaving culture.This paper discusses its current information based on the related reports and relevant research books and documents.Through the limited observation and measurement of cultural relics,the patterns of the garment are drawn.According to the above research,the grammage and material specifications of the three fabrics that constituting the gauze gown in plain color-silk organdy,looped brocade,and the lining of looped brocade are calculated and analyzed.The weaves of the three fabrics are studied and drawn with the help of the partial enlarged pictures of cultural relics.This paper expounds in detail from the pattern grid drawing,the cross-stitch and plain-knit procedure,and the weaving process on account of the looped brocade with complex

关 键 词：素纱襌衣 素纱 绒圈锦 版型设计 组织结构 织造工艺 复织品 

分 类 号：TS145.14[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]