数字化服装结构设计技术的研究进展  

Review of digital pattern-making technology in garment production

作　　者：雷鸽 李小辉[1,2] LEI Ge;LI Xiaohui(College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《纺织学报》2022年第4期203-209,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232022G-08)。

摘　　要：为促进数字化结构设计技术在服装制造业中的应用与发展,首先介绍了参数化制版与基于人工智能的二维纸样直接生成方法,以及三维虚拟缝合技术的发展现状;然后系统地概述了包括三维服装自动生成、虚拟立体裁剪、三维基型重建、三维服装模块化重组的虚拟服装模型的设计方法,总结了基于曲面展开的二维纸样获取技术,包括几何展开法、力学展开法以及几何力学相结合的方法。认为数字化服装结构设计技术在简化制版、摆脱经验依赖、实现可视化三维造型与二维平面转化等方面具有巨大潜力;结合人类创新潜能与计算机计算能力,在满足服装个性化与多元化的同时,提高制版准确率、建模精度与效率是未来数字化结构设计的发展方向。To promote the application and development of digital pattern-making technology,this paper starts by introducing the two-dimensional pattern generation technology including parametric design and application of artificial,and three-dimensional virtual suture technology.The methods to generate garment models,including three-dimensional auto-generation,three-dimensional visual draping,three-dimensional reconstruction,and three-dimensional modular reorganization were discussed.Surface development techniques such as geometric development,mechanical development,the combination of geometry and mechanics were summarized.The paper illustrates that the digital garment pattern-making technology has great potential in pattern-making simplification,experience-independence,and the transformation between visual three-dimensional modeling and two-dimensional pattern.The potential development direction of digital pattern-making is to improve pattern accuracy,modeling accuracy and efficiency while satisfying the personalization and diversification of clothing by combining human innovation potential and computer computing power.

关 键 词：服装结构设计 数字化结构设计 样板生成 三维虚拟 缝合技术 曲面展开 参数化制版 人工智能 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]