衬衫双层领对称技术  

The Symmetry Technology of Double Collar for Shirt

作　　者：宋海燕 李凤霞 杨晓飞 解升 SONG Haiyan;LI Fengxia;YANG Xiaofei;XIE Sheng(Luthai Textile Co.,Ltd.,Zibo 255100,China)

机构地区：[1]鲁泰纺织股份有限公司,山东淄博255100

出　　处：《纺织器材》2022年第2期50-52,共3页Textile Accessories

摘　　要：为了改善衬衫双层领不对称、大小翻领尺寸不合格的问题,从裁剪技术、粘衬方法、缝制手法等方面分析工序要求及问题产生的原因,并试验统计各步骤偏差对衬衫双层领不对称合格率的影响,重点阐述勾翻领、切翻领口、封两翻领、底翻领合拢、锁领尖扣、上领暗线以及上领明线工序的操作要点及改进。指出:衬衫双层领对质量要求严格,且要兼顾舒适性和美观性;通过综合改进可确保双层领尺寸符合工艺要求以及外观对称效果,避免大批量订单如出现问题需将打包装箱好的衬衫重新开箱修改等问题。In order to improve the asymmetry of double collars for shirt and unqualified size of lapels,the process requirements and causes of the problems are analyzed from the aspects of cutting technology,sticking lining method and sewing technique,and the influence of deviation of each step on the unqualified rate of double collars for shirt is tested and counted.The key points and improvements of the procedures of lapel hooking,lapel cutting,double-lapel sealing,bottom lapel closing,locking buttons on lapel tip,assembling lapel dark line and assembling lapel open line.It is pointed out that the double collar for shirt has strict quality requirements,and it should take into account comfort and aesthetics.Through comprehensive improvement,we can ensure that the size of double collar meets the technological requirements and the symmetrical effect of the appearance,and avoid the problem of re-opening the packed shirts for modification when there is a problem with large quantities of orders.

关 键 词：衬衫 双层领 对称 裁剪 缝制 整烫 翻领 上领 折叠 

分 类 号：TS941.713[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]