弹力复合丝镂空仿麻织物的设计与生产  

Design and production of hollow and linen-like fabric based on composite elastic yarn

作　　者：佟昀 TONG Yun(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong,Jiangsu 226007,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第4期18-21,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：江苏先进纺织工程中心建设项目(苏政办发[2014]22号)。

摘　　要：为开发复合多种服用性能的合成纤维女装面料,用弹力复合丝(CEY)设计和织造仿麻弹力织物,使其兼具毛织物的身骨和活络风格以及丝织物的垂感。经纬纱均采用线密度20 tex、捻度150捻/(10cm)的导湿性能优异、手感干爽和富有弹性的弹力复合丝,使之与碱溶消光聚酯低弹丝混并。采用镂空组织,织造出经纬向弹性良好、富有身骨且仿麻效果明显的织物。研究得出:经纬纱张力控制是生产关键,络丝过程中应增加卷取张力、降低超喂率,络丝后要充分释放络丝中积累的缓弹性;整经应注意控制张力,并轴时分别控制不同种类经纱的退绕张力;织造引纬时加装防扭跳装置以防止纬纱扭结。采用晚开口、迟引纬、大张力的工艺。In order to develop synthetic fiber women′s wear fabrics with composite wearing properties,flax like elastic fabrics were designed and woven by using CEY elastic composite filament to has the flexibility and bone style of wool fabric with the drape ability of silk fabric.Both warp and weft yarns were made of elastic composite yarn with the high linear density of 20 tex,150 twist/(10cm)strong twist,with excellent moisture conductivity,dry and elastic feeling.Then it was combined with alkali soluble DTY polyester low elastic yarn.Next,the double elastic structure of warp and weft was fabricated based on hollow structure,which was full of body bone feeling as well as obvious effect of imitating flax.The research shows that tension of warp and filling control is the key.Increase the take up tension,reduce the over feeding rate in winding process,after winding,the inner slow-resilient-elasticity accumulated is necessary to be released.Warping tension should be controlled properly,the unwinding tension of different warp beams should be controlled respectively on warp rebeaming machine.When picking in weaving,weft kink should be prevented.The uniform weft tension device is adopted,late shedding time and late picking time,as well as high tension is adopted to ensure the hollow effect and the flax texture while maintaining moderate elastic force and stiff feeling.

关 键 词：弹力复合丝 镂空 仿麻 弹力 张力 并轴 织造 

分 类 号：TS106.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]