全成形运动休闲外套分割线的设计与编织工艺  

Design and knitting technology of the secant-line of fully formed sports casual jackets

作　　者：梁鑫花 丛洪莲 黄娴 吴前明 LIANG Xinhua;CONG Honglian;HUANG Xian;WU Qianming(Engineering Research Center of Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Wuxi Pacific Knitting Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214037,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]无锡太平针织有限公司,江苏无锡214037

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第4期41-47,共7页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61772238);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP22026)。

摘　　要：横编全成形技术在服装一体编织方面具有极大的优势,分割线是服装基本款向特殊款领域拓展的一个重要的服装特征表现形式。选取运动休闲外套服装构成要素的衣身、衣袖、衣领及帽子为研究对象,对其分割线设计方法和编织工艺进行研究。结果表明:衣身门襟处的竖直分割线采用水平均匀分段的编织方法形成;衣袖肘部的立体凸出结构边缘弧线通过斜向不均匀收针的编织方式形成,增加运动余量;衣领贴合颈部线条的分割线采用局部编织方式形成,前片分别进行编织,形成左右两侧;帽子中部的曲线分割线通过曲线持圈编织,加之左右摇床的编织方式形成;装饰性的竖直线与斜线组合通过机头带动2把纱嘴左右交叉回转编织形成。The horizontal knitting full forming technology has great advantages in the integrated knitting of clothing.The secant-line is an important form of clothing characteristic expression that expands the basic clothing to the special clothing field.The elements of sports casual coats,such as garment body,sleeves,collar and hat,were selected as the research objects,and the design method and knitting process of the secant-line were studied.The results show that the vertical secant-line at the placket of the body is formed by a horizontal and uniformly segmented knitting method.The three-dimensional protruding structure edge arc at the elbow of the sleeve is formed by the knitting method of diagonally uneven stitches,which increases the movement allowance.The secant-line of the collar that fits the neck line is formed by partial knitting,and the front pieces are knitted separately to form the left and right sides.The curved secant-line in the middle of the hat is knitted by the curved holding loop,combined with the knitting of the left and right shakers.The decorative vertical line and the diagonal line are formed by the machine head driving two yarn feeders to cross and rotate left and right.

关 键 词：运动休闲 全成形 分割线设计 编织工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]