国内外速度攀岩精英运动员技术特征对比分析  

Contrast Analysis of the Technical Features for Chinese and Foreign Elite Speed Climbers

作　　者：游国鹏 吴瑛[1] 伍勰[3] 王健清[4] 黄静 袁强[1] 张辉 张杰 YOU Guopeng;WU Ying;WU Xie;WANG Jianqing;HUANG Jing;YUAN Qiang;ZHANG Hui;ZHANG Jie(School of Physical Education and Sport Training,Shanghai University of Sport,Shanghai 200438,China;Department of Physical Education,Changzhi Medical College,Changzhi 046000,Shanxi,China;School of Kinesiology,Shanghai University of Sport,Shanghai 200438,China;School of Leisure,Shanghai University of Sport,Shanghai 200438,China;School of Physical Education,China University of Geosciences,Wuhan 430074,Hubei,China;Department of Physical Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]上海体育学院体育教育训练学院,上海200438 [2]长治医学院公共体育教学部,山西长治046000 [3]上海体育学院运动科学学院,上海200438 [4]上海体育学院休闲学院,上海200438 [5]中国地质大学(武汉)体育学院,湖北武汉430074 [6]东华大学体育部,上海200051

出　　处：《上海体育学院学报》2022年第4期96-106,共11页Journal of Shanghai University of Sport

基　　金：上海市人类运动能力开发与保障重点实验室资助项目(11DZ2261100)。

摘　　要：目的对比分析国内外速度攀岩精英运动员比赛技术特征及差异,为国内精英运动员的专项训练提供理论依据。方法运用二维运动学分析法采集2018—2020年攀岩世锦赛、攀岩世界杯赛和中国攀岩联赛中速度攀岩决赛男女前4名运动员比赛的反应时、触点特征、分段速度以及失误特征指标。结果速度攀岩精英运动员反应时与比赛成绩的相关系数为0.33(P<0.01),同性别的国内外运动员间无显著差异(P>0.05)。多数四肢触点特征指标与比赛成绩具有一定程度的相关关系(0.95>r>0.35,−0.71>r>−0.90,P<0.01),国内运动员多个肢体的触点时间和动作频率指标表现弱于国外运动员(P<0.05)。国内外男子和国外女子运动员的V_(max)阶段为8—10号点,国内女子运动员的V_(max)阶段为7—8号点;国内男子运动员在1—3、6—7号点,女子运动员在1—3、6—7、8—10和13—20号点的速度显著较低(P≤0.03)。国内外男子运动员的失误次数发生率分别为68.18%和60.00%,失误后胜赛率分别为20.00%和21.70%,加速阶段的失误风险分别为6.07%/m和2.50%/m,速度保持阶段的失误风险分别为3.50%/m和4.62%/m;国内外女子运动员的失误次数发生率分别为28.95%和38.00%,失误后胜赛率分别为0和23.53%,加速阶段的失误风险分别为1.88%/m和2.50%/m,速度保持阶段的失误风险分别为1.22%/m和2.31%/m。结论国内外速度攀岩精英运动员的反应时与比赛成绩间具有低度的相关关系,且同性别的国内外精英运动员间无显著差异;国内男子运动员的速度劣势位于加速阶段,国内女子运动员在速度保持阶段的速度劣势更加明显;国内运动员四肢触点时间较长,动作频率较低,失误过多、过早,失误后快速调整能力较弱。Objective It is to analyze the technical features and differences of Chinese and foreign elite speed climbers and provide valuable references for the training of Chinese elite speed climbers.Methods The competition videos of the top four male and female athletes in the speed climbing finals of the 2018-2020 World Climbing Championships,the World Cup and the China Climbing League were screened.The two-dimensional kinematics analysis method were used to quantitatively analyze the reaction time,contact characteristics,segmental speed and failure feature.Results The correlation coefficient between reaction time and performance of elite athletes was 0.33(P<0.01),without significant difference between Chinese and foreign athletes of the same sex(P>0.05).The value of contact time had a certain degree of correlation with performance(0.95>r>0.35,−0.71>r>−0.90,P<0.01)and the contact time and movement frequency indexes of Chinese athletes were weaker than those of foreign athletes(P<0.05).The V_(max) stage of Chinese and foreign male and foreign female athletes appeared on holds 8–10,and The V_(max) stage of Chinese female athletes appeared on holds 7–8.The speed of Chinese male and female athletes were significantly lower than that of foreign athletes on holds 1–3,6–7 and 1–3,6–7,8–10,13–20,respectively(P≤0.03).The failure number rates of male athletes of Chinese and foreign athletes were 68.18%and 60.00%respectively,and the winning rates after failure were 20.00%and 21.70%respectively,the failure risk in the acceleration stage was 6.07%/m and 2.50%/m,respectively,and the failure risk in the speed holding stage was 3.50%/m and 4.62%/m,respectively.The failure number rates of female athletes of Chinese and foreign athletes were 28.95%and 38.00%respectively,and the winning rates after failure were 0 and 23.53%respectively,the failure risk in the acceleration stage was 1.88%/m and 2.50%/m,respectively,and the failure risk in the speed holding stage was 1.22%/m and 2.31%/m,respectively.Conclusions There i

关 键 词：速度攀岩 技术特征 触点时间 比赛速度 反应时 比赛失误 

分 类 号：G808[文化科学—体育训练]