台湾雅美人服饰特征及成因分析  

An Analysis of the Characteristics and Causes of Taiwan Province Yami Costumes

作　　者：张玉琳 李斌 陈东生[2] ZHANG Yu-lin;LI Bin;CHEN Dong-sheng(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan Hubei 430073,China;The Research Centre for Chinese Clothing Culture,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology,NanchangJiangxi 330201,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]江西服装学院中华服饰文化研究中心,江西南昌330201

出　　处：《武汉纺织大学学报》2022年第2期73-78,共6页Journal of Wuhan Textile University

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(18YJA760001)。

摘　　要：为了系统全面地考察台湾少数民族雅美人的服饰文化和美学特征,文章通过文献考查和田野调查方法,对台湾少数民族雅美人的服饰进行系统分析,考察了雅美人的男女服装和饰品特征。研究认为:自然环境决定雅美人服饰的款式和材质,在原材料选取和运用中形成了具有方形系统的单层服装和具有几何样式的金银饰品;人文风俗决定着服饰的细节和用途,通过祭仪表达雅美人对于物质文化的精神寄托和宗教神灵的虔诚信仰。对雅美人服饰特征的把握,对现代服装与饰品的设计以及对台湾少数民族文化的传承具有现实意义。In order to systematically and comprehensively investigate the clothing culture and aesthetic characteristics of the Yami people in Taiwan’s ethnic minorities, the article systematically analyzes the clothing and accessories of the Yami people in Taiwan through documentary research and field research methods. The research believes that: the natural environment determines the style and material of Yami people’s clothing. In the selection and use of raw materials, a single-layer clothing with a square system and a geometric pattern of gold and silver jewelry are formed;humanities and customs determine the details and uses of the clothing. The ritual expresses the spiritual sustenance of material culture and the devout beliefs of religious gods by the Yami people. The grasp of the characteristics of Yami people’s clothing has practical significance for the design of modern clothing and accessories and the inheritance of ethnic minority culture in Taiwan Province.

关 键 词：台湾少数民族雅美人 服饰文化 美学特征 自然环境 人文风俗 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]