改革开放以来中国男式西服形制嬗变分析(1978-2021年)  

Analysis of the Change of Chinese Men's Suit System since the Reform and Opening up(1978-2021)

作　　者：蒋萌 刘勇 李斌 JIANG Meng;LIU Yong;LI Bin(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China;Wuhan Textile and Apparel Digital Engineering Technology Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学武汉纺织服装数字化工程技术研究中心,武汉430073

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第2期30-37,共8页Fashion Guide

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(2020BG03720)。

摘　　要：针对改革开放以来中国男式西服形制嬗变的问题,运用文献研究与图片分析的方法,得到了中国男式西服形制逐渐个性化、潮流化的结论。研究表明:①随着时代变迁,西服面料的选择从传统的机织面料到现在的针织面料,更注重面料的环保性;②西服的款式变化主要在细节上,从宽松型转变为修身型,从单一型向多元型转变,色彩纹样也日趋丰富;③纺织技术的发展、审美思想观念多元化以及中外文化的交流都是直接影响服饰变迁的必然因素,对未来中国男装行业的发展有着一定的借鉴意义。The convening of the Third Plenary Session of the 11th CPC Central Committee on December 18,1978 was a turning point in history and established our principles and policies of reform and opening up.After the reform and opening up,the political environment has gradually relaxed,the economy and culture have developed continuously,and significant changes have taken place in people's lifestyle,interests and aesthetic concepts.Clothing,as a symbol of human culture,is a mirror of the historical development of the times,The evolution of the shape of Chinese men's suits from 1978 to 2021 after the reform and opening up can be roughly divided into three periods:the 1980s was the energy storage period of reform and opening up.The country was open to the outside world,and a large number of colorful foreign clothes suddenly poured in,which caused Chinese people to rethink about their way of wearing,and everyone began to pay attention to their own clothes,The changes of men's clothes are relatively small,and the styles are few.Among them,the"suit fever"can be said to be very representative,which reached a climax in this period.However,people have no awareness of the way they wear suits,but just wear them as they like;The 1990s was the starting point of reform and opening up.The rapid development of economy and the improvement of aesthetic ability changed the previous following fashion blindly,and more focused on the pursuit of personalized clothes to highlight per⁃sonal characteristics.Men also began to realize the importance of different suits on different occasions,and pay more attention to the matching methods;The 21st century is the initial harvest of the achievements of reform and opening up.The garment indus⁃try has formed a large-scale industrial chain,paying more attention to the integration of local culture and international culture in design.The development of many personality and diversity of garment forms has promoted China's garment industry to the world stage.Then through the analysis of the changing characte

关 键 词：改革开放 男式西服 款式 纹样 嬗变 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]