堆置处理对蚕丝/涤纶交织物染色性能的影响  

The influence of batching treatment on dyeing performance of silk/polyester interwoven fabrics

作　　者：杨广青 宋亚伟 房宽峻[1,2,3] YANG Guangqing;SONG Yawei;FANG Kuanjun(College of Textiles&Clothing,Qingdao University,Qingdao 266071,China;State Key Laboratory for Biofibers and Eco-Textiles,Qingdao University,Qingdao 266071,China;Collaborative Innovation Center for Eco-textiles of Shandong Province and the Ministry of Education,Qingdao University,Qingdao 266071,China)

机构地区：[1]青岛大学纺织服装学院,青岛266071 [2]青岛大学生物多糖纤维成形与生态纺织国家重点实验室,青岛266071 [3]青岛大学山东省生态纺织协同创新中心,青岛266071

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第5期8-13,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309800);山东省重大科技创新工程项目(2019TSLH0108)。

摘　　要：文章针对活性染料/分散染料混合染液对蚕丝/涤纶交织物轧染过程中存在的染色深度的问题,采用堆置法调节染料在两种纤维间的分配率并改善其染色性能。研究了堆置时间对分散染料在蚕丝和涤纶纤维上分配率的影响,探讨了蚕丝/涤纶交织物的染色深度和堆置时间的关系,考察了染色前后织物的耐摩擦色牢度和耐皂洗色牢度。结果表明,通过密封堆置浸轧活性染料/分散染料混合染液的蚕丝/涤纶交织物,提高了分散染料在涤纶纤维上的分配率,促进了活性染料对蚕丝的吸附和渗透,显著提升了蚕丝/涤纶交织物的染色深度。同时,染色织物具有良好的色牢度。Silk,which is one of the earliest natural protein fibers used by human beings,has a long history of more than 6 000 years in China.Silk fabrics possess fine gloss,soft feel and excellent skin-friendly properties,which are incomparable to any other textile fiber products.Silk fabrics also have gorgeous appearance,are of high prices,and have become an important choice for high-grade textiles,so silk is known as the "queen" of fiber.Generally,for the purpose of improving the wrinkle resistance of silk fabrics,silk can be combined with polyester fibers,forming a kind of two-component interwoven fabrics.Silk/polyester interwoven fabrics not only show outstanding skin-friendly and hydrophilic properties,but also provide satisfactory wrinkle resistance,exhibiting excellent performance and unique style.In recent years,silk/polyester interwoven fabrics are widely used in the field of clothing and home textiles after dyeing.At present,silk/polyester interwoven fabrics are usually dyed by two-bath method,but the process of this method is complicated,long,inefficient,and high-energy consumed.Therefore,it is in great demand to develop a short-process cleaner dyeing method for the coloration of silk/polyester interwoven fabrics.In order to develop a clean dyeing method for silk/polyester interwoven fabrics,a one-bath two-step pad dyeing process based on reactive dyes/disperse dyes mixed dyeing solution was studied.The amount of dyes on the surface of silk fibers and polyester fibers was measured after the extraction using N,N-dimethylformamide.The effects of batching treatment on dye distribution between silk and polyester,as well as the dyeing performance of silk/polyester interwoven fabrics were explored.The effects of batching time,dye structure,dye pick-up and surfactant on the distribution of disperse dyes on silk fibers and polyester fibers were studied.The effect of batching treatment on the migration of dyes between silk fibers and polyester fibers was analyzed.Due to the large difference in hydrophilicity and hydropho

关 键 词：蚕丝 涤纶 交织物 轧染 堆置 活性染料 分散染料 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]