桐乡濮绸的产品特征及其当代创新设计研究  

A study on the characteristics and contemporary innovative design of Tongxiang Puyuan silk

作　　者：潘依雯 周赳[1] 戴金海 PAN Yiwen;ZHOU Jiu;DAI Jinhai(Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Panshi Culture,Art and Creativity Co.,Ltd.,Jiaxing 314000,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,杭州310018 [2]磐十文化艺术创意有限公司,浙江嘉兴314500

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第5期95-102,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金项目(15BH115);浙江文化研究工程项目(17WH20017-1Z)。

摘　　要：濮绸是宋元明清时期桐乡濮院地区所产的著名丝织品。文章以桐乡濮绸的起源及其发展沿革为线索,对其品种范围进行界定,从技术美(材质、工艺)特征与艺术美(造型、纹样、色彩)两个层面对桐乡濮绸的产品特征进行分析,并提出桐乡濮绸当代创新的方法和路径。研究认为:桐乡濮绸大多为单层结构,由简单组织构成,产品具有多品种特征。纹样受桐乡地区经济社会的发展及中国传统思想的影响,注重题材象征含义的表达。色彩具有桐乡地域特征和中国传统特征相融合的特点。原料和技术受桐乡自然环境与地理位置的影响,使得产品具有白净、细腻、柔韧、耐洗等特征。桐乡濮绸的“艺工商”结合创新方法有助于桐乡濮绸产品的历史传承与当代创新。The Puyuan silk is a famous silk fabric produced in the Puyuan area of Tongxiang during the Song,Yuan,Ming and Qing Dynasties.The Puyuan silk enjoys the reputation of "the best silk in the world".It is one Huzhou crepe of the famous silk varieties named after the place of origin in the ancient Jiangnan like Yuezhou gauze,Hangzhou habutai and Huzhou crepe.And the Puyuan silk is also known as the famous silk product produced in the ancient Jiaxing area,along with Jiaxing brocade and Lingchou.During the Ming and Qing Dynasties,Puyuan silk became the palace silk,and was often used in the production of military flags,battle gowns and brocade clothes.Puyuan silk weaving skills became intangible cultural heritage in Zhejiang Province in 2009,and its inheritance and innovation have entered a new historical stage.The research on Tongxiang Puyuan silk is helpful for the historical inheritance and contemporary innovation of Tongxiang Puyuan silk products and provides case support for the innovative development of Zhejiang silk culture and silk products.This article takes the origin and development of Tongxiang Puyuan silk as clues,defines its variety range,and analyzes the product characteristics of Tongxiang Puyuan silk from two levels of technical beauty(material & technique) and artistic beauty(shape,design & color).It analyzes and proposes the methods and paths of contemporary innovation of Tongxiang Puyuan silk.The research concludes that:Tongxiang Puyuan silk is mostly composed of single-layer structure and simple organization,and also has complex structure in backed structure and double-layer structure.The warp and weft yarns of most Puyuan silk are of the same color,and the warp yarns are the ground,and the weft yarns are the flower.In the process of development,Puyuan silk products are influenced by famous silk products from all over the world and have the characteristics of many varieties.According to the historical evolution of its varieties,it can be divided into silk categories as the main body,including eight

关 键 词：濮绸 桐乡 丝织品 品种界定 美学特征 营商模式 

分 类 号：TS941.61[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]