明代翼善冠形制特征、演变及其传播  

Characteristics,evolution and spread of Yishan Crown in the Ming Dynasty

作　　者：雷文广[1] LEI Wenguang(College of Textile and Garment,Shaoxing University,Shaoxing 312000,China)

机构地区：[1]绍兴文理学院纺织服装学院,浙江绍兴312000

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第5期145-152,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省教育厅一般项目(Y201941041);绍兴文理学院越文化传承与创新中心课题成果项目(2021YWHJD04)。

摘　　要：为研究明代翼善冠,文章通过对卷轴图像、出土文物及古籍文献的梳理,以相互印证的方法,对明代翼善冠的造型、材质及形制演变进行分析。研究表明,明代翼善冠来源于唐太宗时期的常服着装制度,但是其形制与唐代有区别;明代翼善冠由前屋、后山及折角三部分组成,其基本形制从明初一直沿用到明末;明代翼善冠经历了由模仿到创新、装饰由简至繁、标识功能越发突显的演变。由于历史文化等原因,明代翼善冠被当时附属国承袭及传播,并发展出新的形制。Yishan Crown is a crown worn by emperors in the Ming Dynasty.It is called Yishan Crown because its folding angle resembles the Chinese character "Shan".This paper takes Yishan Crown of the Ming Dynasty as the research object,analyzes its origin,structure,material characteristics and shape change,explores the evolution law and communication influence of Yishan Crown,which provides evidence for the dating of Yishan Crown and enriches the cognition of the clothing culture communication in the Ming Dynasty.In order to analyze the shape,material and shape evolution of Yishan Crown in the Ming Dynasty,this paper does research on scroll images,unearthed relics,ancient books and documents.The research shows that the main structure of Yishan Crown in the Ming Dynasty was relatively fixed.It was composed of Qianwu,Houshan and bending angle.The Qianwu was lower than the Houshan and they presented the two-level stepladder shape.In the early Ming Dynasty,the policy of "resuming the hat and clothing system of the Tang Dynasty" was the internal cause,which impelled the main structure of Yishan Crown to draw lessons from the shape of hard Futou in middle-late Tang Dynasty.While the misunderstanding of the meaning of "folding" and mistaking the "Shunfeng Style" Zheshangjin of the Tang Dynasty as the Yishan Crown was the external cause,which contributed to the form and structure of Yishan Crown’s upward folding angle.In the early Ming Dynasty,the shape of Yishan Crown had the characteristics of Futou.The Yishan Crown was similar to Futou in the shape of Houshan and Qianwu.Then in the middle-late Ming Dynasty,the shape of Yishan Crown was improved,the middle of Houshan was no longer cupped and there was no split shape between the left and right side of the crown.Meanwhile,Yishan Crown had patterns of double dragons playing with pearls in the part of Houshan.The inlaid strip was replaced by thin strips of golden decoration at the junction of Qianwu and Houshan.Its shape gradually separated from the shape of Futou in the Tang Dynas

关 键 词：翼善冠 帝王服饰 明代首服 形制特征 服饰文化 传播 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]