湘西土家族毛古斯舞戏服  

An interpretation of the Xiangxi Tujia Nationality Maogusi Dance costume

作　　者：张玉琳 李强 李斌 ZHANG Yulin;LI Qiang;LI Bin(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;Editorial Department of Fashion Guide,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学《服饰导刊》编辑部,湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《中原工学院学报》2022年第2期8-12,共5页Journal of Zhongyuan University of Technology

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(2020BG03720)。

摘　　要：为了考究湘西土家族毛古斯舞戏服的原始特征,通过研究文献和实地考察,对湘西土家族毛古斯舞戏服的材质与形制进行归纳,并对其与原始服装起源的关联性进行再考。研究认为:湘西毛古斯舞戏服的地域分布呈现不均衡性和聚集性,与自然环境和人文环境密切相关;从毛古斯舞戏服的作用来看,其更像是一种图腾崇拜的道具,表征着土家族人对打猎生活和战争的记忆叙事;毛古斯舞戏服的材质和形制可以证明“北皮南卉”服装起源之说的证据不足,服装应起源于原始皮服。In order to study the original characteristics of the costumes of the Tujia Maogusi Dance in western Hunan,the article summarizes the materials and shapes of the costumes of the Tujia Maogusi Dance in western Hunan through the methods of literature research and field investigation,andre-examines the correaltion between the costume and the origin of the primitive clothing.The research points out that the distribution of the costumes of Maogusi Dance in western Hunan presents an imbalance and agglomeration,which is closely related to the natural and human environment.From the perspective of the role of the Maogusi Dance costume,it is more like a prop for totem worship,representing the Tujia people's narrative memory of hunting life and war.From the material and shape of the costumes of Maogusi Dance,there is insufficient evidence to prove the origin of the costumes of“Beipi Nanhui”.Obviously,the clothing originated from primitive leather costumes.

关 键 词：湘西土家族 毛古斯舞戏服 服装起源 

分 类 号：TS941-0[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]