立领领口结构参数对旗袍领型的影响  

Influence of structural parameters of collar on appearance modeling of garment

作　　者：宋莹[1] 李敬伊 孙雅致 SONG Ying;LI Jingyi;SUN Yazhi(College of Clothing and Textile,Eastern Liaoning University,Dandong,Liaoning 118000,China)

机构地区：[1]辽东学院服装与纺织学院,辽宁丹东118000

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第5期67-72,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：辽宁传统服装生产线改造与升级关键技术研究项目(LNSJYT202004)。

摘　　要：为进一步改善立领的造型结构,使其造型更加美观,以传统旗袍所采用的中式立领为研究对象,根据其结构特征确定结构参数与造型参数,以此为依据设计正交试验并制作20件旗袍样衣,对样衣进行图像采集与角度测量;结合问卷调查得到的主观评价,与结构参数和造型参数进行相关分析,并利用方差分析对结果进行多重检验,得出结论:领宽、领深、领宽领深差3个结构参数均与主观评价具有显著相关性;造型参数中前领口夹角在118°~135°之间时造型更佳,且其与造型主观评分具有显著正相关性。领外口余量与主观评分呈显著负相关,说明空隙小、贴近人体颈部的旗袍领型评分相对较高;侧领垂直夹角与造型主观评分不具有相关性,对旗袍领造型的美观程度不产生显著影响。In order to improve the modeling structure of the standing collar and make it more beautiful,the Chinese standing collar used in traditional Cheongsam was taken as the research object,and the structural parameters and modeling parameters were determined according to its structural characteristics.On this basis,orthogonal experiments were designed and 20 cheongsam samples were made,and image collection and angle measurement were conducted on the samples.Based on the subjective evaluation obtained from the questionnaire survey,correlation analysis was conducted with the structural parameters and modeling parameters,and the results were analyzed by considering variance.It was concluded that the three structural parameters of collar width,collar depth and collar depth difference were significantly correlated with the subjective evaluation.Among the modeling parameters,the angle of front neckline was between 118°and 135°,and it had a significant positive correlation with the subjective score of modeling.There was a significant negative correlation between the collar margin and the subjective score,indicating that the score of the collar type of cheongsam with small gap and close to the human neck was relatively high.The vertical angle of the side collar has no correlation with the subjective score of the style,and has no significant influence on the aesthetic degree of the Cheongsam collar.

关 键 词：旗袍 立领 领宽 领深 结构 造型 参数 

分 类 号：TS941.71[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]