可变形自收纳便携西服设计研究  

Design and research of self storage portable suit with variable shape

作　　者：孔建建 朱达辉[2] 许旭兵[2] KONG Jianjian;ZHU Dahui;XU Xubing(School of Fashion,Suzhou Art&Design Technology Institute,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215100,China;College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州工艺美术职业技术学院服装设计学院,江苏苏州215100 [2]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第5期73-78,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家社科基金项目(19BGL130)。

摘　　要：针对传统西服价格昂贵、工艺复杂、打理不易、携带不便等问题,从便携西服的材料选择、结构特点、款式设计等方面详细论述了可变形自收纳便携西服的设计研究方法。研究结果表明:要解决西服与包袋之间多次双向变形功能,首先要为传统面料增加良好的抗皱性能,这是可变形西服的关键技术;其次对传统西服的结构进行改进,完成利用自身固有构件进行收纳的构想;最后为了增强轻松、舒适的穿着体验,从款式细节等入手打造轻量化的设计,大大地降低了可变形自收纳便携西服的质量和体积,也成功地降低了服装制作成本。Aiming at the problems of high price,complex process,difficult care and inconvenient carrying of traditional suit,the design and research method of deformable self-storage portable suit was discussed in detail from the aspects of material selection,structural characteristics and style design of portable suit.The results show that in order to solve the bidirectional deformation between suit and bag,it is necessary to improve the anti-wrinkle performance on the basis of traditional fabric,which is the key technology of deformable suit.Secondly,the structure of traditional suits is improved to complete the concept of using their own inherent components for storage.Finally,in order to enhance the relaxed and comfortable wearing experience,the lightweight design is created from the style details,which greatly reduces the quality and volume of the deformable self-storage portable suit,and also successfully reduces the production cost of clothing.

关 键 词：可变形 自收纳 西服 抗皱性能 便携设计 结构设计 

分 类 号：TS941.19[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]