“The church bells”礼服设计——新古典主义手法在优雅女装上的创意塑造  

“The church bells”dress design:creative shaping of neoclassical techniques in elegant women’s wear

作　　者：陈倩萍 Chen Qianping(Xinjiang Institute of Applied Vocational Technology,Yili 833200,China)

机构地区：[1]新疆应用职业技术学院,新疆伊犁833200

出　　处：《纺织报告》2022年第5期54-56,共3页

摘　　要：女装可以迅速、及时、敏捷地反映社会的变化。法国大革命爆发之后,西方出现了造型自然、线条优美、色彩单纯、风格清新的新古典主义女装,新古典主义风格就此诞生。这类服装与过去的贵族风气完全决裂,作为旧时代象征的裙撑、臀垫和紧身胸衣被完全抛弃,锦缎、丝绸等华丽的面料也被弃之不用。新古典主义女装讲究干练、自然、简单却不失高雅,该时期女性穿的是用细棉布做的宽松衬裙式连衣裙。这种样式一经出现,就被法国妇女迅速接受并流行起来。裙子的腰际线被提高到胸下,胸部内侧用多层棉布做成护胸层;袖子一般很短,但会搭配长及肘部的长手套;裙子也越来越长,导致女性在走路时不得不时时用手提着裙子,这种所谓的优雅姿态逐渐形成一种时尚。这种服装的整体造型非常像古希腊雕塑所表现的状态。Women’s clothing can reflect social changes quickly,timely and quickly.After the outbreak of the French Revolution,neoclassical women’s clothing with natural shape,beautiful lines,simple color and fresh style appeared in the west,and neoclassical style was born.This kind of clothing completely broke away from the aristocratic atmosphere in the past.As a symbol of the old era,the dress panier,bustle and corset were completely abandoned,and the gorgeous fabrics such as brocade and silk were also abandoned.Neoclassicism women’s clothing pays attention to competence,nature,simplicity without losing elegance.Women in this period wore loose petticoat dresses made of fine cotton.Once this style appeared,it was quickly accepted and popular by French women.The waist line of the dress is raised below the breast,and the inner side of the breast is made of multi-layer cotton cloth into a breast protection layer;The sleeves are usually very short,but they will be matched with long gloves as long as the elbow;dresses are also getting longer and longer,resulting in women having to carry dresses in their hands when walking.This so-called elegant posture has gradually become a fashion.The overall shape of this kind of clothing is very similar to the state of ancient Greek sculpture.

关 键 词：新古典主义 高雅 简单自然 

分 类 号：TS941.717[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]