桑蚕丝织物的山茶花拓染  

Printing of mulberry silk fabric with Camellia

作　　者：刘明辉 房佳蕾 周秋宝 柴丽琴 LIU Minghui;FANG Jialei;ZHOU Qiubao;CHAI Liqin(Engineering Research Center for Eco-Dyeing and Finishing of Textiles,Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Hangzhou Water Group Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou 310009,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学生态染整技术教育部工程研究中心,浙江杭州310018 [2]杭州市水务集团有限公司,浙江杭州310009

出　　处：《印染》2022年第4期30-33,共4页China Dyeing and Finishing

基　　金：浙江省基础公益研究计划项目(LGC20E030001);浙江理工大学科研启动基金项目(19012134-Y)。

摘　　要：以新鲜山茶花瓣为原料,将其特有的天然色素拓染在桑蚕丝织物上,既保留山茶花本身独特的花型,又可获得细腻柔和的色彩和栩栩如生的图案。通过测试拓染图案的K/S值和Lab值等颜色指标,优化汽蒸拓染中的各影响因素。结果表明:桑蚕丝织物先经2 g/L海藻酸钠和1 mL/L醋酸溶液预处理后烘干,再经105℃汽蒸15 min,可获得最佳的拓染效果,且色牢度良好;生产中可根据不同的颜色要求选用不同的媒染剂。该工艺也可在棉和粘胶织物上获得良好的拓染图案。Using fresh Camellia petals as raw materials,its unique natural pigments are transferred to the silk fabric,which not only retains the unique flower pattern of the Camellia,but also obtains delicate and soft colors and lifelike patterns.By testing the color indicators such as K/S value and Lab value of the eco-printing pat⁃terns,various influencing factors in steam eco-printing are analyzed and discussed.The results show that the best eco-printing effect and good color fastness can be obtained by the following process:the silk fabrics are pretreated with 2 g/L sodium alginate and 1 mL/L acetic acid solution,followed by drying,and steaming at 105℃for 15 min.Different mordants can be selected according to color.The eco-printing patterns are also available on cotton and viscose fabrics.

关 键 词：拓染 汽蒸 山茶花 桑蚕丝 

分 类 号：TS195[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]