羊绒表与羊毛里双面大衣呢产品开发  

Development of Double-faced Overcoating with Outer Cashmere and Inner Wool

作　　者：周方颖[1] 贺少君 ZHOU Fangying;HE Shaojun(Jiangyin Polytechnic College,Jiangyin 214405,China;Zhejiang Jinsuo Textile Co.,Ltd.,Jinhua 321102,China)

机构地区：[1]江阴职业技术学院,江苏江阴214405 [2]浙江金梭纺织有限公司,浙江金华321102

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2022年第6期37-39,共3页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：采用63tex纯羊绒粗纺纱,以2/2右斜纹织制表层,采用24tex×2纯羊毛精纺纱,以2/2左斜纹织制里层,并以11tex×2纯涤纶纱为接结经固结表里层,织制双面大衣呢。呢坯经过轻缩呢后,经正面起毛、反面烫光的整理工艺,既获得面料正面羊绒丰满的视觉感和舒适的手感,又有效地解决了双面羊绒面料掉毛、穿着有刺扎感的问题。这种表里不同原料、不同风格的双面大衣呢,不仅降低面料克重,而且节省羊绒资源,有效降低生产成本。The double-face overcoating was woven,whose outer with 2/2 right twill weave made of 63 tex pure cashmere woolen yarn,and inner with 2/2 left twill weave made of 24 tex×2 pure wool worsted yarn,together with junction warp made of 11 tex×2 polyester yarn.After soft felting,the coarse fabric was napped for its outer and polished for its inner during the subsequent finishing processing.The plump optical effect and comfortable handle feel from cashmere could be obtained,fiber loss and stabbing sense could be solved.Furthermore,the weight of this kind of double-face overcoating with different material was decreased,which save much more cashmere resource and expense of production.

关 键 词：双面大衣呢 接结组织 接结经 轻缩呢 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]