锦纶66包芯纱牛仔面料开发  

Development of polyamide 66 core-spun denim fabric

作　　者：刘玉萌 童胜昊 张瑞云[1,4] 章小华 徐潇源 刘柳 张瑞寅 雷飞[3] 付少举 LIU Yu-meng;TONG Sheng-hao;ZHANG Rui-yun;ZHANG Xiao-hua;XU Xiao-yuan;LIU Liu;ZHANG Rui-yin;LEI Fei;FU Shao-ju(Key Laboratory of Textile fabric Technology,Ministry of Education,Textile College,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Textile Technology Innovation Center,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Zhejiang Jinsuo textile Co.,Ltd.,Jinhua 321100,China;Shanghai Belt and Road Joint Laboratory of Textile Intelligent Manufacturing,Shanghai 201620,China;China Cotton Textile Association,Beijing 100027,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室,上海201620 [2]东华大学纺织科技创新中心,上海201620 [3]浙江金梭纺织有限公司,浙江金华321100 [4]上海市纺织智能制造与工程一带一路国际联合实验室,上海201620 [5]中国棉纺织行业协会,北京100027

出　　处：《山东科学》2022年第3期27-34,共8页Shandong Science

基　　金：上海市科学技术委员会“科技创新行动计划”“一带一路”国际合作项目(21130750100)。

摘　　要：使用锦纶66纤维开发高性能、高品质的牛仔面料,以粘胶为外包纤维,锦纶66或氨纶为芯丝制成36.4和28.0 tex的包芯纱为纬纱,使用剑杆织机使其与36.4和28.0 tex的纯棉纱线进行交织,制成牛仔面料。对锦纶66包芯纱和氨纶包芯纱所织制的6种牛仔面料进行色牢度、耐磨性、强力、弹性回复性、折皱回复性和弯曲性能等性能测试并进行对比分析,发现锦纶66包芯纱牛仔面料的弹性达到氨纶包芯纱牛仔面料的弹性水平,且其强力和柔软度更佳。以粘胶/锦纶66(3.33 tex/10 F)包芯纱织制面料比粘胶/锦纶66(3.33 tex/34 F)强力更大、弹性回复性更好,且更柔软。同时,采用36.4 tex纱线所织制的面料的强力、弹性和折皱回复性更好,但28.0 tex纱线所织制的面料更柔软。Herein,we are using polyamide 66 fiber to develop high performance and high quality denim fabric.Using viscose as the outer fiber,polyamide 66 or spandex as the core yarn to make 36.4 and 28.0 tex core-spun yarn as the weft yarn,pure cotton yarn of 36.4 and 28.0 tex as the warp yarn,a rapier loom is used to interweave to make the denim fabric.The strength,wear resistance,elastic recovery,crease recovery,and bending properties of denim fabrics woven from 6 kinds of fabrics waved by polyamide 66 core-spun yarns and spandex core-spun yarns were tested.Through comparative analysis,it is found that the elasticity of polyamide 66 core-spun denim is as good as that of spandex core-spun denim,while its strength and softness are better.Viscose/polyamide 66(3.33 tex/10 F)core-spun fabric is stronger,more resilient,and softer than viscose/polyamide 66(3.33 tex/34 F)fabric.Meanwhile,fabrics woven with 36.4 tex yarn have better strength,elasticity,and crease recovery,while fabrics woven with 28.0 tex yarn are softer.

关 键 词：锦纶66包芯纱 氨纶包芯纱 牛仔面料 拉伸性能 弹性回复性 折皱回复性 弯曲性能 

分 类 号：TS155.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]