艾叶提取物体外美白活性及其机理  

In vitro Whitening Activity and Its Mechanism of Artemisia Argyi Leaves Extracts

作　　者：徐晓明 杨鑫 毕永贤 蒋丽刚 XU Xiaoming;YANG Xin;BI Yongxian;JIANG Ligang(Proya Cosmetics Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou 310012,Zhejiang,China)

机构地区：[1]珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司,浙江杭州310012

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2022年第2期9-13,共5页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

摘　　要：通过酪氨酸酶活性、黑色素含量、酪氨酸酶基因(TYR)和小眼畸形相关转录因子(MITF)的基因和蛋白表达水平等检测指标,研究了艾叶提取物(Aale)对黑色素形成的影响。结果表明,Aale对蘑菇酪氨酸酶单酚酶和二酚酶活性均有明显的抑制作用,在Aale质量浓度为100μg/mL时,抑制率分别为(43.25%±0.03%)和(44.36%±0.07%);Aale可以抑制IBMX诱导的B16F10细胞黑色素的合成,Aale质量浓度越大,抑制率越高,在质量浓度为6.25、12.5、25μg/mL时,抑制率分别为(37.91%±0.08%)、(61.00%±0.12%)、(77.70%±0.07%);同时Aale也能降低由ET-1和SCF诱导的B16F10细胞黑色素含量。此外,根据qRT-PCR和Elisa试验表明,Aale可以下调TYR和MITF的表达。因此,艾叶提取物存在潜在的美白作用,在化妆品开发中可能具有一定的应用前景。Tyrosinase activity,melanin content,TYR and melanocyte inducing transcription factor(MITF)gene expression levels and protein levels were used to study the effect of Artemisia argyi leave extract(Aale)on melanin formation.The results showed,the activity values of monophenase and diphenolase of mushroom tyrosinase were significantly inhibited by Aale(100μg/mL)with the inhibition rates of(43.25%±0.03%)and(44.36%±0.07%).The melanin synthesis induced by 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine(IBMX)in mouse melanocyte B16F10 was significantly inhibited by Aale in a dose-dependent manner,with the inhibition rates of(37.91%±0.08%),(61.00%±0.12%)and(77.70%±0.07%)when the Aale mass concentration was 6.25,12.5,25μg/mL,respectively.And Aale decreased the contents of melanin in B16F10 cells treated by ET-1 and SCF.In addition,the quantitative real-time PCR(qRT-PCR)and Elisa analyses showed that the over-expression of tyrosinase and MITF due to IBMX were down-regulated by Aale.Therefore,Aale has potential whitening effect and its application prospect in cosmetics.

关 键 词：艾叶提取物 酪氨酸酶 黑色素含量 美白 体外功效 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]