改革开放以来中国男式中山服嬗变分析(1978—2021年)  

Analysis on the Evolution of Chinese Men’s Zhongshan Suit since the Reform and Opening Up(1978-2021)

作　　者：蒋萌 刘勇 李斌 JIANG Meng;LIU Yong;LI Bin(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China;Wuhan Textile and Apparel Digital Engineering Technology Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学武汉纺织服装数字化工程技术研究中心,武汉430073

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第3期34-38,共5页Fashion Guide

摘　　要：[研究方法]针对改革开放以来中国男式中山服嬗变的问题,运用文献研究与图片分析两维印证的方法,得到了中国男式中山服逐渐演变成中国本土化西服的结论。[研究结果与结论]研究表明:(1)改革开放以来,中山服经历了从以往的辉煌时期到逐渐落寞再到如今逐渐复兴;(2)新式中山服的形制在其领型、腰身等款式细节处逐渐西化;(3)审美的单一性、象征性的减弱,以及场域的逐渐消失都是直接影响中山服形制微妙变化的因素,对未来中国男式中山服的创新设计有着一定的借鉴意义。Zhongshan suit,a Chinese style dress personally designed and advocated by Dr.Sun Yat Sen,has always occupied a very important position and far-reaching influence in Chinese men’s wear.It has been popular from its design to the1970s.However,after the reform and opening up,the phenomenon of hot suits made Zhongshan suit gradually lose its original mainstream position and began to withdraw from the ranks that once monopolized men’s clothing.The single and boring style of Zhongshan suit made its gradual decline inevitable;Until the 21st century,with the improvement of China’s international status and the return of national self-confidence,people gradually focused on the development of national brands.Through the innovative design of Zhongshan clothing and the development and promotion of clothing brands,"Zhongshan clothing"returned to daily life.Modern Zhongshan suit has gradually explored a mature production process and technology path in the design and development,integrated rich design elements,injected the design ideas of modern fashion designers,and formed its own industrial characteristics.Zhongshan suit is not only a kind of dress,but also exists in the form of a culture and a national spirit.Now,in the innovative design of Zhongshan suit,it is natural not to remain unchanged.We should not only inherit the essence of Chinese culture,but also consider meeting the current people’s aesthetic needs and wearing habits when designing new styles.How to make innovation and breakthrough in style,fabric and style,and how to keep up with the trend of the times is a very meaningful and market prospect work.This paper further studies the changes and deficiencies of Chinese men’s clothing literature by using the method of online search and open,and puts forward the corresponding research methods of Chinese men’s clothing literature;Through the picture analysis method,this paper deeply analyzes the basic shape,development and evolution of the highly representative men’s Zhongshan suit,and comes to the conclusio

关 键 词：改革开放 男式中山服 形制 嬗变 本土化 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]