中国国家级纺织类非物质文化遗产名录整理  

Compilation of China’s National Textile Intangible Cultural Heritage List

作　　者：赖文蕾 刘畅 陈晓宇 李艳芳 李京平 孙婉莹 郑新 秦雨萱 王燕[3] 赵金龙[2] LAI Wenlei;LIU Chang;CHEN Xiaoyu;LI Yanfang;LI Jingping;SUN Wanying;ZHENG Xin;QIN Yuxuan;WANG Yan;ZHAO Jinlong(School of fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 4300730 China;The Hubei Research Center for Intangible Heritage,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 4300730 China;School of Humanities,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051 China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉4300730 [2]武汉纺织大学湖北省非物质文化遗产研究中心,武汉4300730 [3]东华大学人文学院,上海200051

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第3期45-71,共27页Fashion Guide

基　　金：湖北省档案馆项目“共建纺织文化研究中心”(WD192294);湖北省教育厅人文社会科学项目一般项目(20Y075)。

摘　　要：[研究意义]中国地域辽阔,少数民族众多,纺织类非物质文化遗产具有数量大、种类多、内容丰富等特点,对其进行整理分析有助于该领域学者做进一步调查研究,同时这也对我国提高文化自信,宣扬我国传统文化以及提高我国纺织技术有着重要意义。[研究方法]文章主要通过资料整理与数据分析的方式对中国现已公布的五批国家级纺织类非物质文化遗产的项目进行系统分析,探究其数量特征及成因。[研究结果与结论]研究结论:(1)国家级纺织类非物质文化遗产四大类别中传统服饰类数量最多,有269项,占比最大,达总量的61%;纺织技艺类其次,有81项,占比18%;刺绣技艺类有76项,占比17%;印染技艺类数量最少有15项,占比仅4%。(2)国家级纺织类非物质文化遗产数量随着批次的增加而逐渐递减,第二批至第三批出现断崖式递减。究其原因与国家相关政策以及非物质文化遗产挖掘难易度相关。(3)从各省部国家级纺织类非物质文化遗产数据分析可知,省部国家级纺织类非物质文化遗产数量与当地经济文化水平、少数民族种类与数量、以及区域面积有着较大的关系。China has a vast territory and a large number of ethnic minorities.China’s textile intangible cultural heritage is characterized by large quantity,variety and rich content.Sorting out and analyzing it is helpful for scholars in this field to do more in-depth research and investigation,and it is also of great significance for China to improve its cultural confidence and promote its traditional culture and textile technology.By using the method of sorting out literature,we can systematically sort out and analyse the five batches of national textile intangible cultural heritage projects and batches published in China,and explore the distribution characteristics and causes of it,the following conclusions can be drawn:1)Among the four categories of national textile intangible Cultural Heritage,the traditional clothing category has the largest number of 269 items,accounting for 61%of the total.The number of textile skills ranked second,with 81 items,accounting for 18%;There were 76 items of embroidery skills,accounting for 17%;The number of printing and dyeing skills was the least,with 15 items,accounting for only 4%.2)The number of national textile Intangible Heritage gradually decreases with the increase of batches,and there is a cliff decline from the second batch to the third batch.The reasons are related to relevant national policies and the difficulty of intangible cultural heritage excavation.3)According to the data analysis of national textile intangible cultural heritage in different provinces,the number of national textile intangible cultural heritage in different provinces is related to the local economic and cultural level,the number of local minorities,and the regional area.

关 键 词：中国国家级非物质文化遗产 纺织类非物质文化遗产 名录整理 

分 类 号：TS941.19[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]