世博会视角的沃斯高级时装屋推广方式  

Promotion Mode of Worth Haute Couture House from the Perspective of World Expo

作　　者：刘丽娴[1] 陈嘉慧 吕卓逸 LIU Lixian;CHEN Jiahui;LYU Zhuoyi(Zhejiang Silk and Fashion Culture Center,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;School of Fashion Design and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;International Institute of Fashion Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学国际时装技术学院,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《服装学报》2022年第3期268-274,共7页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：浙江省哲学社会科学领军人才培育专项课题子课题项目(22YJRC03ZD-1YB)。

摘　　要：查尔斯·弗雷德里克·沃斯及其高级时装屋凭借创新的设计与超前的商业运营思维享誉19世纪末至20世纪初的欧美上流社会。梳理繁杂的史料信息,对沃斯及其高级时装屋的发展历程、消费群体、推广方式,以及数次参展世博会的情况进行整理,还原以沃斯高级时装屋为代表的法国高级时装屋通过在19世纪末到20世纪上半叶频繁参展世博会,形成设计与运营并重的设计管理理念,并付诸实践的过程。通过对沃斯高级时装屋的研究,由点及面地映射出法国高级时装产业萌蘖期的设计环境、设计师和时尚消费群体的思想以及时尚传播方式的转变。梳理总结出在国家设计政策支持下法国高级时装产业的发展契机与历史必然。从早期参展世博会到参加现代国际时装周再到设置线上虚拟展厅,时尚品牌需不断转变推广方式,以更好地满足消费者需求。Charles Fredrick Worth and his haute couture house were famous in Europe and the United States upper class society from the late 19th century to the early 20th century for their innovative design and advanced business operation thinking.Through combing out complicated historical information,this paper sorted out consumer groups,promotion mode as well as several times of participating in the world expo of Worth and his haute couture house.It restored the process of French haute couture houses represented by Worth Haute Couture House forming the concepts of design and operation through frequent participation in world expos and putting it into practice from the late 19th century to the first half of 20th century.Through the study of Worth Haute Couture House,the paper reflected the design environment,the ideas of designers and fashion consumer groups,as well as the change of fashion communication mode of the budding period of French haute couture industry from point to surface.It summarized the development opportunities and historical inevitability of French haute couture industry under the support of national design policies.From participating in the early world expos to attending the modern international fashion week then to setting up the online virtual exhibition hall,the fashion brands need to constantly change the promotion modes to better meet the need of consumers.

关 键 词：沃斯 高级时装产业 时尚群体 推广方式 世界博览会 

分 类 号：TS941.743[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]