清代纺织品中明黄色色彩研究  

A Color Test and Analysis of Bright-Yellowed Textiles of the Qing Court

作　　者：王允丽[1] 王春蕾[1] Wang Yunli;Wang Chunlei

机构地区：[1]故宫博物院文保科技部

出　　处：《故宫博物院院刊》2022年第5期122-132,139,共12页Palace Museum Journal

基　　金：故宫博物院科研课题"院藏清代纺织品染料成分研究"(项目编号:KT2015-10)的阶段性成果之一。

摘　　要：清代典制文献中对于服饰颜色的使用有详细规定,“明黄色”是等级最高的一种。本文在对故宫博物院藏纺织品整理与研究的过程中,发现清代同种颜色名称的纺织品普遍存在色差。作者通过对档案记录为“明黄色”的实物进行科学检测,给出其色度值,讨论其色度范围,同时结合清代服饰图样及根据内务府档案中的染料配方进行复染试验,分析了“明黄色”色彩存在差异的原因。此项研究对于客观认识清代纺织品色彩分类有积极意义,也为探讨清代冠服制度等提供了可参考的依据。As is officially specified in the regulations by the Qing dynasty on the colors used for the kinds of official garments,the ’bright-yellow’ is among the highest-rank colors.The scientific tests have indicated that the ’color distance’ is commonly found between the textiles that share the same name of the Qing court,which are in the collection of the Palace Museum.This thesis demonstrates the documented ’bright-yellow textile stuff’ detecting the elements,calculating the chromatic value and the color scale as well.Meanwhile,it analyzes the causes for the ’color distance’ through experimental dying tests by the dyes formula included in the imperial archives and the garment samples of the Qing dynasty.The above scientific analyses intend to identify and classify the textile colors for the matter-offact results,which can be used as the reference for more knowledge about the crown suit system of the Qing Dynasty.

关 键 词：清代纺织品 明黄色 分光测色仪 古代服饰研究 

分 类 号：K249[历史地理—历史学] TS106[历史地理—中国史] K876.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]