单向导湿纬编双面小提花织物的结构与性能  

Structure and properties of weft knitted unidirectional water-transport double-sided small jacquard fabric

作　　者：葛美彤 董智佳 丁玉琴 孙菲 GE Meitong;DONG Zhijia;DING Yuqin;SUN Fei(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第6期7-13,共7页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61902150)。

摘　　要：为解决传统纬编织物出汗后湿润且贴身黏腻,不能保持织物与皮肤接触内层的干爽舒适的问题,文章基于纤维的差动毛细效应原理,选用普通涤纶纤维和超细涤纶纤维为原料,设计了3种纬编双面小提花织物结构,通过调节纬编双面织物的2种纤维穿纱配置,开发了6款具有单向导湿功能的纬编双面小提花织物。通过织物液态水分管理以及透气透湿实验,对成品面料进行性能测试与评价。结果表明:以5.55 tex(14f)涤纶纤维编织贴肤内层,8.25 tex(288f)涤纶纤维编织服用外层,所得的织物内层干爽,其组织结构中的连接点数量较少且分布均匀,且织物具有更好的单向导湿及透湿性能;织物的内外层纤维压力差与双层组织结构效应实现了稳定的单向导湿功能;双面织物紧密侧覆盖8.25 tex(288f)涤纶纱线线圈越多且双面连接点少时,织物透气性能越差,双面连接点均匀分布时,织物透气性相对更好。In order to solve the problem that the traditional weft knitted fabric is wet and sticky after sweating,and the inner layer of the fabric can not stay dry and comfortable,based on the principle of differential capillary effect of fiber,three kinds of weft knitted double-sided small jacquard fabrics were designed by using ordinary polyester fiber and superfine polyester fiber as raw materials.Six weft knitted double-sided small jacquard fabrics with unidirectional water-transport function were developed by adjusting two kinds of fiber threading configurations of weft knitted double-sided fabrics.The results show that the inner layer of fabric is dry when the inner layer is knitted by 5.55 tex(14f)polyester fiber and the outer layer is knitted with 8.25 tex(288f)polyester fiber.Meanwhile the number of connecting points in the fabric structure is small and equally distributed,and the unidirectional moisture transport capability and moisture permeability of the fabric are better.The pressure difference between the inner and outer layers of the fabric and the effect of double-layer structure realize the stable unidirectional water-transport moisture function.The more 8.25 tex(288f)polyester yarn covered on the tight side of the double-sided fabric and the fewer double-sided connection points,the worse the air permeability.When the distribution of the double-sided connection points is evenly,the air permeability is better.

关 键 词：单向导湿 双面针织物 透湿性 透气性 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]