布依族服饰纹样设计因子提取及其应用  

Extraction and application of design factors of Buyi clothing pattern

作　　者：黄柏利 吴志明 吕颖 HUANG Baili;WU Zhiming;Lü Ying(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Department of Art,Changzhou Open University,Changzhou,Jiangsu 213001,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]常州开放大学艺术系,江苏常州213001

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第6期123-130,共8页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(21YJA760073)。

摘　　要：为将布依族服饰纹样用于文创产品设计,实现民族文化融汇古今的创新与传承,选取157件贵州省民族博物馆馆藏布依族服饰的纹样为研究对象,运用设计学和语义学理论,从用户感知意象着手分析布依族服饰纹样中具有典型特征属性的样本要素,以可视化纹样的造型、色彩、工艺为装饰因子,透过其表征挖掘内隐情感要素为意涵因子,共同构成设计因子;采用问卷调查经李克特5级量表统计2轮因子筛选,经测评得出用户感知偏好,完成文创产品设计应用案例分析。研究结果表明:通过似物非物的造型骨骼变化、视觉变幻的色彩要素碰撞、巧妙细腻的古今工艺加持、由表及里的意涵情感植入等设计方法选取要素输出产品,可实现媒介的跨时代转换,传承优秀传统民族文化。In order to use the patterns of Buyi clothing in the design of cultural and creative products,realize the innovation and inheritance of national culture,patterns of 157 Guizhou Buyi clothing in national museum were selected as the research objects and sample elements with typical characteristic attributes were analyzed from the user′s perception of the images analysis by using the theory of design and semantics,the visual pattern of the shape,color,technology as decorative factors,through its characterization to explore the implicit emotional factors as implication factors,together constitute the design factor.Questionnaire survey and likert five-level scale statistics were used for two rounds of factor selection,user perception preference was obtained through evaluation,and case analysis of cultural and creative product design application was completed.The research results show that the cross-era transformation of media and the inheritance of excellent traditional national culture can be realized by selecting and exporting the products through such design methods as the change of shapes and bones of immaterial objects and non-objects,the collision of color elements with visual changes,the support of ingenious and exquisite ancient and modern technology,and the implantation of implication and emotion from the outside to the inside.

关 键 词：布依族服饰纹样 文创产品 设计因子 用户感知 表象特征 隐性意涵 

分 类 号：TS195.644[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]