解决免烫衬衫接缝部位起皱的实践  

Practice of Solving Seaming Part Wrinkling of Non-ironing Shirt

作　　者：李凤霞 宋海燕 和玉芳 宋法强 LI Fengxia;SONG Haiyan;HE Yufang;SONG Faqiang(Luthai Textile Co.,Ltd.,Zibo 255100,China)

机构地区：[1]鲁泰纺织股份有限公司,山东淄博255100

出　　处：《纺织器材》2022年第3期44-47,共4页Textile Accessories

摘　　要：为了解决免烫衬衫接缝部位起皱问题,从门襟、侧缝、底边、袖窿、后片收省、袖头、合肩缝、袖褀及翻领方面,分析原有缝制手法、设备、工具和样板等引起接缝起皱的原因,总结出对应的调整方法和步骤,并对比统计起皱改善等级。结果表明:通过调整缝制手法和设备,规范操作流程,免烫衬衫门襟起皱级别提高0.3级~0.5级,侧缝提高0.2级~0.5级,底边提高0.3级~0.5级,袖窿提高0.2级~0.5级,满足客户要求。In order to solve the problem of seaming part wrinkling of non-ironing shirt,the causes of seaming part wrinkling are analyzed result from existing sewing technique,equipments,tools,templates from the aspect of placket,side seam,bottom side,armhole,the back piece dart,sleeve,joining shoulder seam,sleeve and lapel,and lapel collar.The corresponding adjustment methods and steps are summarized,and the improvement grade of wrinkling is compared and counted.The results show that by adjusting the sewing technique and equipment and standardizing the operation process,the wrinkling level of the placket of non-ironing shirt can be increased by 0.3~0.5,the side seam by 0.2~0.5,the bottom side by 0.3~0.5,and the armhole by 0.2~0.5,which meet the requirements of customers.

关 键 词：免烫衬衫 接缝 起皱 门襟 侧缝 底边 袖窿 缝制手法 

分 类 号：TS103.321[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]