基于上肢活动状态的冲锋衣袖结构优化  

Optimization of shape structure of outdoor jackets’sleeve based on upper limb movement state

作　　者：赵欣蕾 薛哲彬 俞金健 ZHAO Xinlei;XUE Zhebin;YU Jinjian(College of Textile and Clothing Engineering,Soochow University,Suzhou 215000,Jiangsu,China;Jiangsu Huajia Silk Corp.Ltd,Suzhou 21500,Jiangsu,china)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215000 [2]江苏华佳丝绸有限公司,江苏苏州215000

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2022年第2期28-35,共8页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：国家丝绸重点实验室开放基金(KJS2057)。

摘　　要：针对市售大部分冲锋衣的衣袖设计较难兼具美观性和舒适性的问题,提出几种结构改进方案。首先采用市场调研结合理论分析对当前主流冲锋衣衣袖部位的优缺点进行探讨,再采用实证研究法对冲锋衣衣袖进行结构改进,最后通过主观评价和试穿实验对改进的效果进行舒适性验证。结果显示:通过增加肘省可有效增强衣袖在人体静止站立时的美观性;在插肩袖的基础上增加腋下褶裥可有效增强服装的运动舒适性;通过增加袖裆能较好地解决衣袖腋下面料堆积过多的问题,同时使服装具有一定的运动舒适性;在袖筒上增加钉扣可改变袖长,但由于长度固定,具有局限性。Aiming at the problem that for most commercially available outdoor jackets,the sleeve design is difficult to combine aesthetics and comfort,several structural improvement schemes are put forward.Firstly,market research combined with theoretical analysis is used to discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the current mainstream outdoor jackets’sleeve parts.After that,the structure of the sleeve is improved by empirical approach.Finally,the improved effect was verified by subjective evaluation and fitting experiment.The results show that the method of increasing elbow dart can effectively enhance the aesthetic performance of sleeve when standing still.The method of adding underarm pleats on the basis of the rotator cuff can effectively enhance the sports comfort of the garment.The way of adding sleeve crotch can solve the problem of excessive accumulation under the armpit,and make the clothing have a certain movement comfort.The method of buttoning on the sleeve can meet the requirements of sleeve length variation,but it has some limitations due to the fixed length.

关 键 词：衣袖结构 冲锋衣 服装性能 结构设计 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]