“文青消费观”视域下服饰老字号品牌年轻化建设——以北京瑞蚨祥为例  

Rejuvenative Construction of Time-honored Clothing Brands from the Perspective of“Consumption Ideas of Hipsters”:a Case Study of Beijing Refosian

作　　者：白玉力 BAI Yu-li

机构地区：[1]北京联合大学艺术学院,北京100101

出　　处：《中南民族大学学报（人文社会科学版）》2022年第7期83-90,184,共9页Journal of South-Central Minzu University (Humanities and Social Sciences)

基　　金：北京联合大学校级科研项目“‘身份认同’视域下北京服饰老字号品牌年轻化研究”(SK30202101)。

摘　　要：立足消费者视角并聚焦文青群体,提出围绕文青消费观进行品牌年轻化建设的观点,并结合真实性理论探讨服饰老字号沿此方向实现消费群体代际变迁的可能性和调整方向。具体来说,首先梳理了有关文青价值观、审美观及其影响力的文献;进而以北京瑞蚨祥为案例,分析了文青与服饰老字号两者之间的关联与背离;最后,对如何弥合二者之间的裂隙给出了应对建议,即激活品牌,重塑老字号的品牌真实性,在儒家文化与时尚属性的平衡中延续老字号的古朴诗意。This paper looks at the potential of“hipster economy”,making arguments of rejuvenating time-honored apparel brands from perspective of hipster consumption.The feasibility and innovation direction are explored by drawing on theories on authenticity and identity.Specifically speaking,firstly,a review of documentation about hipster values,aesthetics and market influences alike are conducted.On this basis,taking Refosian as the representative of Chinese time-honored apparel brands,this paper analyzes the overlap and disjoint between hipster and the aging apparel brands.Furtherly,solutions about how to bridge the gulf between the two are discussed,i.e.by rejuvenating the brands and reshaping the brand identity,we keep the balance between the Confucian culture and fashion trend.

关 键 词：文青 消费者视角 服饰 老字号 瑞蚨祥 品牌年轻化 真实性 

分 类 号：C95[社会学—民族学]