空心锭包覆纺纱的芯纱残留捻回及其应用  

Residual twist of core yarn and its application in hollow spindle cover spinning

作　　者：敖利民[1] 楼焕 唐雯[3] AO Limin;LOU Huan;TANG Wen(College of Materials and Textile Engineering, Jiaxing University, Jiaxing, Zhejiang 314001, China;School of Textiles and Fashion, Shanghai University of Engineering Science, Shanghai 201620, China;College of Business, Jiaxing University, Jiaxing, Zhejiang 314001, China)

机构地区：[1]嘉兴学院材料与纺织工程学院,浙江嘉兴314001 [2]上海工程技术大学纺织服装学院,上海201620 [3]嘉兴学院商学院,浙江嘉兴314001

出　　处：《纺织学报》2022年第7期41-46,54,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：浙江省纱线材料成形与复合加工技术研究重点实验室开放基金项目(MTC-2022-01)。

摘　　要：为探讨空心锭包覆纺纱过程中外包缠纱对芯纱的假捻作用与应用,以黑、白两色涤纶长丝纱组成双芯纱,黑色涤纶长丝纱为外包缠纱,纺制了不同纺纱工艺的包覆纱,分析了芯纱残留捻回的捻向和捻度特征以及锭速、引纱速度、芯纱张力对芯纱残留捻度的影响;对利用芯纱残留捻度纺制段彩纱的原理与段彩特征进行了探讨,并给出了应用实例。结果表明:外包缠纱对芯纱缠绕的假捻作用,会使芯纱上形成残留捻向变化、捻度不等的捻回分布;残留捻回的捻度随锭速的增大、引纱速度的降低、芯纱张力的减小而增大;利用芯纱残留捻回的片段呈色效应,可用异色芯纱纺制具有段彩外观的“纱/纱”复合段彩纱,这种段彩纱具有区别于常规段彩纱的“闪色”特征。In order to explore the characteristics and application of the false twist effect of the outer wrapping yarn on the core yarn in hollow spindle cover spinning process,covered yarns of different processes were produced with black and white polyester filament yarns as the double core yarn,and the black polyester filament yarn being the outer wrapping yarn.The influence of twist direction and twist number characteristics of core yarn as well as the spindle speed,yarn take-up speed and core yarn tension on core yarn residual twist were analyzed.The principle spinning segment color yarn with core yarn residual twist and the characteristics of segment color were discussed with exemplified applications.The results show that the false twist effect of the outer wrapping yarn on the core yarn causes the residual twist to be unevenly distributed in the core yarn.The twist number of the residual twist increases with the rise in the spindle speed,the slowing down of the take-up speed and reduction of the core yarn tension.Using the"fragment coloring"effect of the core yarn residual twist,the"yarn/yarn"composite segment color yarn with a segment color appearance can be spun from the different color core yarns,and the composite yarn has the characteristic of"flashing color"which is different from the conventional segment colored yarns.

关 键 词：空心锭包覆纺纱 芯纱 假捻作用特征 残留捻回 复合段彩纱 

分 类 号：TS104.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS104.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]